I used the small binder posts they sold at the Tandy store. I took a piece of the cutoff and made a loop. The leather was so thick however that I took it to the bench grinder to thin it for the loop. I fastened the loop between to of the binder posts after hand sewing with some really stout nylon line.
A REAL man uses a nail gun to hold up his pants!
I used to buy leather from here.
Ah, a buckle failure, not a leather failure. Others have already addressed sources for leather, but the only way I have been able to guarantee a good buckle has been to look for the words "solid brass" stamped on it somewhere. Even the keeper style are likely to be plated diecast if they're not marked.
If you don't mind the roller "harness" style, tractor supply has buckles, as well as solid copper rivets with washers (burrs). I find I only ever remove a buckle once I've killed the leather anyway, so I don't bother with snaps.
Metalworking content: to use solid copper rivets, punch a hole through the leather, push through the rivet from the front (if fastening a buckle, obviously you will need to punch a series of holes for the keeper, insert the buckle, fold over and align holes). On the back, put the washer over the shaft. At this point it will only go on until the taper. Use a piece pf steel with a hole drilled in it (rivet sets have one next to the "heading" recess) or just use a pair of slipjoint pliers held loosely on the shaft of the rivet, tap the washer down the shaft with a hammer (a 1 lb. ball peen works well for this and the next few steps). Clip the rivet off leaving about 1/8 to 3/16. Rest the head of the rivet on an anvil or heavy vise, and pound straight down on the end with the flat end of the hammer until the rivet expands and starts to mash over. Once it is close to fully mashed down, switch to the peen end to dome it nicely. Takes longer to write than to do.
If at some point you do want to change buckles, seperate the two pieces of leather enough to get a pair of diagonal cutters in there, and just cut it. Put in the new buckle and re-rivet.
If you don't like the solid copper, you could also use the two-part brass "jiffy" rivets, so I would use at least two, maybe even three. Rivet style won't show, since they'll be covered by the tail of the belt regardless. Or just use binding posts like one of the other responses mentioned, though you might have better luck finding them in a leather shop if you ask for "Chicago screws". Heck, I think even mcmaster carries them.
--Glenn Lyford
...but they are smaller...
(I hate it when my fingers can't keep up with my brain). --Glenn Lyford
The use of the word "brass" in item 267 is ambiguous, so it probably refers to the color, not the material, and the buckle is likely made of brass-plated pot metal.
One can buy buckles made of real brass (I always do), but the wording has to be unambiguous, like "made of solid brass". Item 67 is clear.
Joe Gwinn
Wasn't there something about Gunner using firearms for that purpose? A well perforated belt, being necessary for holding up your pants, the right to bear arms...
Thank you. I am rather considering making my own, given that I have some materials (inconel welding rods) and it would be a good practice.
Even brass buckles do not wear out. Right now I am wearing a Soviet officers belt from a very old time ago (I will check with my dad, could be 1960s), the buckle is almost as new.
i
When expanded, the ad says:
``The #276 casual belt is 1 3/4" wide with your choice of polished antique brass or stainless steel buckle. Double hole design offers wide range of sizing for a truly comfortable fit. Made from 8-10 oz. genuine leather, the belt will last for many years.''
I think that they really mean brass.
i
Well, I bought a garrison belt at an Army/Navy store when I was about
But, it's like my great-grandfather's axe. I've replaced the strap at least 3-4 times, the keeper twice, the buckle once. Just the tongue - or whatever you call the piece that pivots on the buckle - is original.
The original cast buckle gave up about 15 years ago, so I made a new one from 5/16" naval bronze plate. Sawed, milled, shaped and filed to match the original. That bronze is tough stuff.
Straps were your basic Tandy or equivalent tooling leather, as heavy as I could find it. Eventually, they stretch and break or break out the holes. I'm ready for a new one now, and picked up some strips of heavy harness leather at a local harness maker. I've got three buckles in process for my sons and a nephew.
I may never need another.
John Martin
Like the new "golden" dollar? (it sure looks and hefts like brass to me.) ;-)
Cheers! Rich
Next time you are around a leather shop, county fair, tourist trap... take a look at some of the belt buckles on display/for sale. Should give you some good ideas for making your own. I KNOW you have enough stuff to make your own buckles :)
These would require some stitching, easier just buy one. I just picked the first example that came via google:
I suspect not. The language is still ambiguous, so I would bet that these are surface colors or coatings, not the main construction materials.
The rule is to assume the cheapest approach that doesn't outright violate the description.
Joe Gwinn
Well ... since what is failing is the buckles, why not just get some quality buckles? I had used several buckles which turned out to be pot metal, flashed to look like brass, and was looking for something better. I happened on a street vendor who had a collection of buckles, including one which was in the shape of a fiddle/violin. I thought "That looks nice -- but I'll bet that it is pot metal." as I reached to pick it up. Once I had it in my hand, it was obvious from the weight that it was sold brass or bronze. This was about 1975 or so, and I am still wearing it -- on perhaps the third belt. And I typically have a lot of things hanging from my belt, so they are under stress.
The back of the buckle says "Solid Brass" and "Made in Taiwan", so the country of manufacture is not even that critical.
You might be able to make your own buckle of good materials, and put them on the belts from the old buckles -- and keep your eyes open for somewhere that sells leather working goods, and get the materials to make your own custom belt.
Belt -- well cured leather, wide and thick enough to take more load and wear than you will ever put on it.
Buckle -- good metal -- usually machined instead of cast.
Go to a place which sells firearms and holsters. See what belts they offer.
Good Luck, DoN.
[ ... ]
Or -- screws and matching "sex screws" to hold it together, as my current belt has.
Ouch! I've not bought any from department stores. But I have bought some from leather crafters at Science Fiction conventions.
Good Luck, DoN.
together these
Snaps? Sex screws?
Copper belt rivets and burs. #8 or #10 are good sizes for heavy belts. Punch the holes, insert the rivet, put the bur on and drive it down, cut the rivet to length and set with a ball pein hammer. Permanent.
John Martin
snipped-for-privacy@prolynx.com wrote in news:527015b7-1724-43a6-a05e- snipped-for-privacy@m3g2000pri.googlegroups.com:
There are still a few retail outlets around. The only one in eastern Massachusetts is in Chelmsford, and my old belt is about dead. I've been meaning to get up there for about a year. My belt's got a basketweave pattern embossed on it, but the newer basketweave pattern they sell isn't quite as nice.
I used to collect buckles and have some nice ones from Smith & Wesson, and one from Ruger. There are quite a few gun themed buckles around, and many are high quality. However, some are also junk. I've bought a couple "pewter" buckles that are mostly lead.
I got some very nice nickle silver ones from a guy who made & sold them from a stall in San Francisco 30 years ago. The one I wear now is a ~ 2
1/2" diameter silver medal I won target shooting. I made a back for it out of a disk of 50 mil SS sheet, with 1/8" diameter SS rod silver soldered into holes to make a hook and a loop for the belt. If folks are interested, I can fire up my camera & take a few snap shots. I made a spare back for a gold medal I've got, but I prefer the look of silver & never glued them together.Doug White
[ ... ]
Sex screws are screw heads with an internally threaded hole into which a matching head screw fits. One is what is on my current belt, and it has lasted through several belts, following the buckle as the heavy loads on my belt wore out the leather.
Fine -- if you never need to change the buckle on that belt. Except that you have to get another rivet whenever you move the buckle to a new belt.
Snaps let you swap the buckle between belts if you have a dresss belt for occasional wear and a rough use belt for everyday -- and you like the buckle enough to want to swap it between belts. But -- you need new snaps for each new belt -- and it may not come with snaps.
With the sex screws, you simply move them with the buckle.
Enjoy, DoN.
I made one that looked like a miniature horse shoe from hot roll steel using torch and hammer. I've been using it for almost 40 years.
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@Katana.d-and-d.com:
Snaps are an advantage if you travel. My buckle is heavy enough that it will set off an airport metal detector. Rather than having to remove my entire belt, I can snap off the buckle in a few seconds, toss it in the bin with my change & keys, and go through airport security without a hiccup. The big savings is that I can snap it back on, as opposed to having to re-thread my entire belt.
Doug White
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