OT: Slave light switch

they make motion sensors for interior lights, usable in bathrooms or offices, for instance. they take the place of the switch.

I use these at workstations in the shop, they are not "ugly" if you have an outlet nearby can use a corded light fixture:

Have you googled just merely, "motion sensors?" They can be quite unobtrusive, you know. And with a proper fish tape and a little advice from the old guy at the home improvement store, couldn't you string some wires above the ceiling, from below?

And, wouldn't a photocell-based slave light still require stringing some wires so that the light in the alcove knows when the hallway light comes on?

I've even seen battery-powered closet lights with a pull string. Not very bright, but at least you won't trip over stuff. And, of course, you'd need to replace the batteries from time to time.

Good Luck! Rich

Thanks guys,

I can get to the ceiling wiring for the alcove OK, just no way to connect up with the wiring or switch plate for the passage lights.

I tried a motion sensing battery powered light but the On-duration was non adjustable and I want the light to stay on as long as the passage lights are on. I don't mind if the alcove light stays on longer than the passage lights, I just do not want it off before them.

I may try using one of those lights that come on at dusk and off at dawn and see if I can move the sensor to pick up the passage lights. I was just hoping there may be something already available like that, being the lazy or fart I am. {grin}

Dave

Once in my house, the bathroom had a light and a fan that came on simultaneously - I didn't want that; I wanted to be able to leave the fan on but turn the light off after, say, a hot shower or a particularly nasty dump, so I went to the home improvement store, bought a duplex switch and about 15 feet of blue wire, rented a fish tape, and fished the new wire up to the fan.

But let me reiterate - you _can_ get just the motion sensor, without those unwieldy outdoor lamp sockets, and they're all adjustable for on-time, or maybe sensivity. I put one of those on the back porch of the house for when I got home at night, so I could see to unlock the back door.

But as long as you don't stand stock-still, you will continue to stimulate the PIR (passive infrared receiver) sensor.

Good Luck! Rich

Battery powered, for short service? I got a trio of triangular lights similar to these at Costco a couple years ago for twenty bucks. I use them in my closets and under the sink. They're great, and the LEDs are movable for aiming to the spot I need.

-- Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air... -- Ralph Waldo Emerson

There are battery powered motion sensor lights. This is $8.99 right now.

Here's another option:

Replace the switch with an X-10 (or similar) controller, and use a slave module for the light, either from a receptacle module, or and edison module. I would suggest the Leviton rather than the X10 versions, because dealing with the X10 people leaves a bad taste.

I deal usually with these people.

This sort of thing?

Would something like flat wire be able to be run?

Can you fish the wires in with a pole? It's not necessary for wires to have a human attached when they make the trip, after all.

Can you guide the light to the alcove (just use a spotlight from some more convenient location)? Or maybe use a track light, the electric connection can be at the far end of the track, might be easier to wire there?

Wiremold? That runs on the surface and can be run unobtrusively, like next to baseboards and in corners. My dad used miles of it in basements on outside block walls and other spots where wiring couldn't be fished. The big boxes have carried it in the past, haven't gone looking for it recently. They used to have shallow switches for the system, too.

Stan

Still available at Blowes and Homey Depot .

I bought 1000 Home Depot curly Flourescents , cause they

sell for about $1 ea .. solder a wire in the base of one of the

transistors , and its the SWITCH , ground it and CFL goes out ,

if you worry about the wire loading , coil the wire and put a

? what am i using them for ?

They can be re wired to put out 300 watts DC , parallel them

and give them a load , like a transformer , then a single side

of diodes , WELDER , 100 of these , a bit detuned

will weld 300 amps at 30 vdc .,

the bad news , is finding the diodes and transformer ..

So ill use these for driving hi volt relays in a MIG welder ,

BTW i project a lot so i started a closed GoogleGroups ,

but cant figure how to use this group ,

any suggestions ? its createstuf@googlegroups

Google says i can invite memebers , so gemme email address

and ill add you to this closed NEWS GROUP ,

Believe this ! I have only pratical but exciting stuf like

you can build for $200 , but ya gotta do a lot work , Buy some chineese

welder like Harbor Fright for about $250 and hope ya get your moneys

worth , in transistors and diodes . I did , the old HF RED BOX , stick TIG ,

had a German IGBT , 75 amps at 600 vdc , thats worth $60 !

Diodes are 30 u 60 30 amps at 60 vdc , i lucked out again ,

core was a big ferrite E core , i gapped it and it shud do 200 amps

Its hard to get parts , the best way is to find Asian imports ,

The Home Depot CFL lights will drive 100 vdc solenoids to

pull the wire , i will have an old style pinch roller drive , but the

solenoids take most of the load of pulling wire ..

The book says ya gotta buy approved NEC switches and conduit and ..

Im a law breaker , because all written laws are un ethical , not created

by the most intellegent class ... no common sense ...

I can use CFL curly lites from home depot as relay drivers and

solenoid drivers to do motor switching , etc ..

i use XMAS LEDs from Walmart , string them all over the house

Cut out all the long wires and keep the strings of LEDs , there are

two strings in ea set , 110 vac , or dc .

I cut of the fancy CONE plastic , it lowers the output of the

LED ,

Wanna join a closed NEWSGROUP ? I started snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com

but cant figure how to use it . If you give me email address ,

ill add you to this closed NG , It wont be boring , im workin on

Linux to airplanes , DIY hydraulic hammers to forge Turbo chargers ,

electronics , radios , a new way to HF Digital ( SWL like ) Low Bands

about 16 mhz , High powered WiFi linking of the whole city ..

It wont be boring .

Do you have some oddball newsreader that's putting all those spaces in? Or do you have spasms in your thumbs? Please tell me it's not intentional.

Bob

I saw both metal and plastic Wiremold at Lowes a few days ago.

Do you expect people to wade through this crap?