What is the cheapest way to defoiliate my property as we head into spring? It's not just weeds but light brush and small trees. It's hard believe how prolific the unwanted growth is. By July, this stuff will be 5' high and a problem around the fire exits in the back. I'm thinking an airdrop of Agent Orange...
ANFO Cheap and fast
A man of my admiration! However, I still need the building.
On the day of Thu, 06 Apr 2006 04:30:13 GMT... "Tom Gardner" typed these letters:
I'm interested in this too. In my experience, cheap requires lots of work. Easy requires expensive chemicals applied in a timely mannor. I spend about 8 hours a week in the summer riding around the yard on a lawn mower. I wouldn't consider adding fertilizer to grass. I want something that will stunt it's growth.
Devonshrie
Mix as much stryofoam packing peanuts as will disolve in a 5 gallon bucket of gasoline. Apply with a HVLP paint sprayer. Apply heat until a chemical reaction occurs.
Gunner
"The importance of morality is that people behave themselves even if nobody's watching. There are not enough cops and laws to replace personal morality as a means to produce a civilized society. Indeed, the police and criminal justice system are the last desperate line of defense for a civilized society. Unfortunately, too many of us see police, laws and the criminal justice system as society's first line of defense." --Walter Williams
A small dozer does a good job. Chickens will strip everything bare except small trees & brush, which is too big for them to root out. If you just want to keep it low a bush hog is the ticket; that takes out everything but short grass.
On Thu, 06 Apr 2006 09:11:42 GMT, Gunner wrote: SNIP
SNIP
Hey Gunner,
Seriously, is that the general formula for the Apocalypse Now "I love the smell of fresh ?????? in the morning!" stuff?
Take care.
Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario.
Local lawn care and landscape guy swears by Roundup mixed at 1/10 strength. He says at that concentration it acts as a growth retardant more than an herbicide.
You want a combination. The effects of two herbicides don't add, they multiply.
I'm assuming you don't have an applicator's license for restricted use herbicides... (I do)
If you can find full strength roundup (4 - 4.8 # a.i./gal) and 2-4,D (ester
20% a.i.), apply each at 2 quarts per acre with 1 quart per acre crop oil. Ammonium sulfate will greatly enhance effect at about .25#/gallon of spray. Wait until you have significant foliage and a nice warm actively growing day.Of course, if you can find Garlon, Tordon, or the old 2,4,5,T (that's agent orange main ingredient- now illegal) you don't have to pussy foot around.
If you want to put down a pre-emergent to keep an area weed free of new germination, you should be able to find Princept. re-apply 2/year, don't go over label rate if you care about your local well water supply.
Karl
"Karl Townsend" wrote in message news:qk7Zf.12$ snipped-for-privacy@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net...
Help me out, here. I used to use a lot of 2-4,D when starting new pastures. At the time, I recall that for broadleaf control, it called out 9 pints per acre. Why the significantly lower application rate? Is it because you're using it in conjunction with the orthophosphate?
LLoyd
I wonder if I can hire a local applicator? What would I look for? Lawn & Garden care? Landscaping?
"Karl Townsend" wrote in message news:qk7Zf.12$ snipped-for-privacy@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net...
On Wed, 5 Apr 2006 22:04:41 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, "Paul in Redland" quickly quoth:
Dig up the trees, making sure to get most of the rootstock. Till it, spill it, and mulch it! Glyphosate (like Roundup) works pretty well and it's less toxic than some other agents, such as Orange, besides being legal. Then get the tree trimmer guys to dump their loads of mulch on there. Flatten it out with a rake and it'll keep the lot clear for a year or more.
ANFO would surely get the DHS riled up, though they're slightly distracted with pedophiles lately. ;)
-- This would be the best of all possible worlds, if there were no religion in it. - John Adams
Seriously consider some goats. They need water of course and some sort of fencing, but lots of folks use them these days. I netted a bit over $15K last year running them on some property with a creek bottom I own. They work great once you get set up. The meat market is nice, look for some meat/dairy cross weanlings wethers around
30-40 lbs and take em to maybe 75-80 the sell em--or have your buddys over for some BarBQue.....Hey ,Roy you still got those Boers?Hooved locus they are, brush small trees go first then the weeds the grass goes last, I add sheep to take the grass. If I sprayed , which I do on other units I own the cost would be in the $60/acre range and the type of chemicals allowed are restricted. The spread between goats/spraying is around $200/acre. A no brainer for me. YMMV
ED
Oh yeah... THERE'S a great idea...
Let's *DELIBERATELY* breed resistance into the weeds!
Depends on how big your property is. Unless you are going to pave the soil over to prevent anything from growing, the best that can be done is to replace "undesirable" foliage with "desirable" foliage that can be inexpensively managed by mechanical means. The most cost effective is lawn plus lawn mower.
You have to remove the root systems; otherwise, you are fighting a losing battle. For every shrub or tree you cut down, its root system will sprout 5 to 10 more to replace the original. It goes up exponentially from there.
You might find some ideas here:
But of course mon ami! It controls the weeds very well and can sterilize the soil underneath, allowing you to have your very own parched earth.
Gunner
"The importance of morality is that people behave themselves even if nobody's watching. There are not enough cops and laws to replace personal morality as a means to produce a civilized society. Indeed, the police and criminal justice system are the last desperate line of defense for a civilized society. Unfortunately, too many of us see police, laws and the criminal justice system as society's first line of defense." --Walter Williams
Try these guys
"The importance of morality is that people behave themselves even if nobody's watching. There are not enough cops and laws to replace personal morality as a means to produce a civilized society. Indeed, the police and criminal justice system are the last desperate line of defense for a civilized society. Unfortunately, too many of us see police, laws and the criminal justice system as society's first line of defense." --Walter Williams
Yes. Used in conjunction you can drop rates, but actually get better kills.
For carryover resistance you can add some atrazine to the mix as well.
Rates I use are: 32oz Glyphos/ac, 1gal oil/100 gal sol'n, Atrazine
16oz/ac, 2-4-D 16oz/acIf you want to make absolutely sure, you could step them up a bit. Depends on how you are applying them. With a boom, step it up. With a wand, probably not necessary as you are going to get a thick coverage.
DO NOT do what another poster recommended and go with a "stunting" level of chemicals. Kill it or dont' bother. Purposely developing a tolerance in weeds is incredibly irresponsible.
JW
Bonsoir, Bonsoir,
Na trium Palm ate I guess Formula is in the name.
Noone to blame, difficult to be both a chemist and a diplomat!
You most likely bought the "pre-diluted" 2,4,D. Pretty common in hardware stores, discount outlets etc. Kinda like buying the new already diluted antifreeze that you don't have to add water. Label rate for pastures is 2 qt. per acre. You're wasting your money to go over the label rate. More is not better.
Karl
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