OT: woodworking adhesives

Or spend $15 bucks at Amazon.

formatting link

Reply to
Larry Jaques
Loading thread data ...

If the camera is out of whack in the zeroed out position it's always going to be a pain to work with. Not all cameras have all movements, so compensating for all weird out of parallel positions may not be possible.

During printing with an enlarger, errors of just a few thousands of an inch can be visible.

finding some old wood may be a good plan.

Reply to
Cydrome Leader

that's the problem. even the photoshopped pics they have show all the stuff is bowed.

Reply to
Cydrome Leader

This is a great idea. Add braces on the inside, nobody will see them and it should be easier than trying to get thin warped plywood to try to lay flat.

That thing is a point and shoot compared to an 8x10.

Reply to
Cydrome Leader

Let me know the next time you see a flat piece of think plywood with no bow or curl. I'll buy it from you.

It's why they make plywood in the first place.

Reply to
Cydrome Leader

Any tips for flattening plywood? Say I have some that doesn't lay flat on a piece of glass, how might one correct that?

Reply to
Cydrome Leader

Just go down to the local hobby shoppe and buy a piece of flat 1/4" birch ply. Geez!

Reply to
Richard

Stop buying plywood at HD or Lowe's.

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

+1

And in the meantime, toss the curvy ply on the lawn on a dewey morning, concave side down for half an hour on a warmish day, until it flattens. Now stand it on edge in your garage to dry, hopefully a metric chitload more flat.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

The point is that it is a lens board and the guy apparently successfully made it.

But a few messages ago you seemed to be saying that the camera wasn't adjustable and now you seem to be referring to an 8 x 10 view camera. My experience with view cameras was that one focuses and composes by moving either the front or rear standard, or both, as necessary to achieve the envisioned picture.

Reply to
John B.

Different cameras have different adjustments or ranges of adjustments. If a lense is pointing off like a wandering eye in some weird direction because the lensboard is warped or sagging in a strange direction, you may or may not be able to adjust for this, plus making these adjustments can get tricky if everything is off to start with.

The larger the camera, the more sensitive it is to thing beings out of alignment due to the fact that larger longer cameras wobble around more.

With enlargers, errors of just thousands of an inch can be apparent. It can be be compensated for (sometimes), but is always a pain. The best thing to do is avoid all unnecessary errors from the start, and with thin materials holding a big brass lense in a 9" square, this is harder than with a 4x5 press camera.

Reply to
Cydrome Leader

haven't seen a hobby shop in at least a decade.

Reply to
Cydrome Leader

They don't hide.

I can easily find them from far away:

formatting link

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Look at hobby shops, there are 1/8" plywood options. You can get very good strength from aluminum plate, and either apply a wood veneer (contact cement) or laminate with a suitable thin plywood.

Some resinous woods (mahogany, teak, notably) are very stable, don't warp or twist in humidity changes. Expect to pay a premium price.

Reply to
whit3rd

Yes, in theory you are correct, But.... I'm looking at a photo hanging on the wall here. It shows a house in Singapore, built probably in the late 1800's with a background of a modern high rise office building. It was taken with a 35mm reflex from a street that was lower then either of the buildings so the camera was pointed upward a bit. To get the prospective correct I tilted the pallet holding the paper when I printed it.

Most, if not all, of my large format pictures involved moving either the film holder or the lens board to correct prospective or focus.

My experience was that although the big cameras were heavy that they were much easier to use. With a 4 x 5 I used a magnifier to check focus, with an 8 x 10 I could usually focus without the magnifier.

But more rationally, wood is fairly stout stuff. Maple, for example, has a ultimate strength, in bending, of some 15,000 psi. Hickory -

20,000 psi. Fiberglass, aluminum, steel, are of course stronger and all can be worked with common shop tools.
Reply to
John B.

Reply to
123glazebrookr

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.