Power hammer construction help?

As some of you probably remember, I'm building a Kinyon style power hammer. I'm getting to the stage where I'm about ready to start welding
things together, and was looking for advice.
The baseplate is about 3/4" thick and 2'x 3' roughly. The bolt holes are about 3" in from the edges. I was planning on putting conveyor belting under the baseplate. Do I need to go to the edges of the baseplate, or would 18"x30" be enough belting to put under it? (I can't find used in the places I've checked, so I'm going to be buying new.) Also, I can get thicknesses up to 1/4" thick. How much is likely to be enough? I'll be ordering today.
            Todd
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(snip)
Sorry to follow up to myself, but I forgot the other question....
I also need to drill and tap 4 holes on the end of a 6 1/2" cylinder that is about 29 inches long. This is a little taller than my drill press can handle (one of the 'bench' HF specials...not to bad though, it drilled 3/4" holes through the 3/4" base plate). Is there an 'easy' way to drill these holes short of spending $90 to rent and mag drill press?             Todd
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post an offer of a "drill four holes for a case of beer" on craigslist. Anyone with a regular floor DP can do it for you. If you were local to me, I would do it for free.
(or you can buy a floor style drill press).
i

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Turn the head of your drill press 180 degrees on the column. Orient the drill press so the head sticks off the edge of the bench. Make a couple of wooden double v blocks ><. Clamp your cylinders to the Drill press column using the double v blocks, and block up from the floor. Drill away.
Carl Boyd
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wrote:

If your in or near Southern VT come on over and you can use my Drill press. If not try a job shop , I think it would cost less then $90.
YMMV
Andrew
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(snip)

Well, I'm in Eastern PA, so while the drive is do-able, it would probably run more in gas than the mag drill rental. Thank you for the offer though, it is most appreicated.         Todd (I work in a machine shop, but I think the last time I saw a floor press was a few years ago. I'll go looking around and see what I can find.)
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wrote:

Where in Eastern PA, I'm in Reading.
Bill
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Near Quakertown. Reading is definately do-able.
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(snip)
Well, it looks like I'm going an alternate route. I've gotten a 1" thick round plate that I'll be drilling and then tapping. I've also gotten a section of tubing to act as a sleeve. I'll mill some slots on the sleeve, then weld it over the rod, and then drop the plate in and weld it in place. It won't be quite as good as if I'd gone solid, but it should be reasonably close.             Todd
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Local to central NY?
Sticking your bench DP on the edge of the bench (and rotating the head) was a good idea.
Dave
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wrote:

Conveyor belting? Where are you at? Ive got a couple short rolls
Gunner
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(snip)
Eastern PA at the moment. Shipping would probably be prohibitive. I'm looking at $30-45 for buying new.
Btw, when the hammer is done, you are getting the plans. Sorry it has taken so long to get to this point. Weather was kind of cold to be working in the shop without the forge running. Shop heating is going in this fall.             Todd
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wrote:

I ferget what its like outside of California in the winter time....<G>
Gunner
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Couldn't you just use a rubber floor mat? As far as size goes, whey not just call Ron Kinyon and ask him? I just saw him at the BAM conference in Missouri and he's still as friendly as always.
Pete Stanaitis ------------------------------------
Todd Rich wrote:

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You probably dont have to use a full sized rubber mat, but it would be better. I used a horse stall mat. Not expensive, and they come in 5x6 or so pieces- so whatever you dont use under the hammer can be a fatigue mat when working at it. Most places nowadays still have feed stores, as all those pretend farmers on their half acre farmettes need a place to buy their dog food in big bags. Feed stores usually have stall mats.
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