I have a 35 year old house with my shop in the basement (metalworking content) and it has developed a leak at a crack in the wall. I looked around online and found a kit that looked like it might work. The outfit is LCR - liquid concrete repair.
The system is you glue up the crack with pretty ordinary epoxy stuff, but include injection ports every foot or so. Then, after that epoxy hardens, you mix up a tube of much thinner epoxy and inject it into the ports with a caulking gun. I did a bad job on the first part, there were several leaks where I didn't get all the branches of the crack sealed, or had little leaks around the injection ports. So, when I injected the stuff into the crack, it started leaking out.
Also, the crack is VERY narrow at the bottom, where the water was leaking in, and I used huge pressure on the caulking gun but couldn't get much of the sealant to flow in. It flowed easily near the top of the crack.
So, I was a little worried I hadn't gotten the sealing stuff deep enough into the crack. But, we had some serious rains last week, and not a drop came through! This isn't an absolute guarantee that the leak is fixed, as it could be very unpredictable which rain would cause a leak. But, it is looking quite likely it is fixed.
The kit cost something like $78, you get 2 huge pots of the surface sealing epoxy, and two tubes of the liquid sealer. I only used one tube.
Just thought if somebody else has the same problem, they might try this stuff.
For the little leaks in the concrete form tie rods which eventually rust out and leak, I made up my own system. First, you get a 1/2" diamond core drill at Lowe's, they are about $18. Drill around the leaky rod about 3/4" deep. Then, try to either bash the rod deeper into the wall, or if that fails, torch it off. I used an Oxy-MAPP torch, heated it white hot and then quickly grabbed it with pliers and twisted. Sometimes it took several heating/ twisting cycles to get the exposed rod to break off. Then, when the wall cools, clean the hole of all loose concrete and fill it with JB weld. I bet you could also use PC-7, which is a lot cheaper. So far, this system is also working.
Jon