Product Test Report-Cold Heat Soldering Iron

Nov 16, 2005 23 Replies

The problem - heat and copper - solder joins with the copper and it dissolves the tip. If you nickel plate or silver solder the tip then tin it with the solder - it will last and last.

On large irons - the trick is to use boot heal (tennis shoe (an old one maybe) ) presses all around the tip that solder should not flow to - and only the area that gets tinned is left free. The rubber taints the copper and solder won't tin it.

Naturally it can be done in reverse - hot rubber on the work to keep out the solder.

Martin Martin Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

Gerald Miller wrote:

Hi Gerry,

I still have two of the old Wen's (one was my Dad's) and a handful of new tips. The tips rarely need to be replaced, in my experience that is. The only reason I bought the Weller was so I could have one sitting at the work bench and the Wen could stay in my service van. I grew tired of going out to the van and retrieving it when I needed some serious heat that my pencil irons couldn't deliver. The Wen stayed in the van because it would always work, the more dependable of the two.

I can shoot some images of the Wen if you're curious what it looked like. I suspect it is different than the one you had...

The Wen belonged to the shop owner. My original Weller Junior (8100) is still in service after 50+ years. In the meantime I keep buying

8200's at yard sales for a couple bucks and giving them away, also have a D550 that I inherited from a friend. Gerry :-)} London, Canada

Personally I give it about an 8. It was made for that specialized light weight work you mention and that it does superbly well. I can't fault it for not doing other stuff that it wasn't designed to do.

Wattage doesn't really apply--it's a resistance soldering machine, so its output depends on the geometry and fit of the joint.

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