Pulleys

Re-bore the nylon pulleys and install bronze bushings.

Sounds like a good plan UNLESS you are in salt water.

Karl

In which case buy some Delrin and turn some new pulleys...

Cliff.

The usual "marine alloy" is usually one of the 60 series, 6061 for instance. Generally parts for boats are anodized but making a few spare pulleys will probably "solve" any corrosion problems. By the way, do not mix aluminum and stainless in salt water environments unless you insulate them from each other. Cheers,

Bruce

5052 is also a marine alloy. Used more than 6xxx series. Both are very low copper. the 60xx is harder. Most of the river jetboats are 5052, with some of the bottoms having 6000 series in critical contact areas. but I would just bore the pulleys and add a bearing hub. A new Delran, or a roller bearing, or a bronze bushing.

Yup, or just make some brass pulleys. They're small.

So would I but he did ask about "aluminum". Cheers,

Bruce

I knew an old boat builder and lobster fisherman in Maine that used flat chain as steering "cables". He had a few of the small iron pulleys that you use on porch awnings to guide it. I asked him why not proper plastic coated cables and good pulleys and he told me that the chain and cast iron pulleys were cheaper and he just replaced them every couple of years. Said it was a lot cheaper then the fancy plastic coated cable and bronze blocks.

Cheers,

Bruce

Besides the plastic on the cables comes apart after a while anyway depending on the climate.

For small outboards single control cable rack and pinion steering, for medium size dual cable, and for big ones go hydraulic. If lubed properly the direct cable steering willl last the life of the boat. NOT pulley cable with spring block like the mentioned party was using for his chain. Still cheap is cheap.

I was replying to the guy who stated Marine Aluminum Alloy was 6000 series.

5052 is very much a marine alloy. My 1991 Aluminum river jetboat is made of the stuff and still is in fine shape. Only corrosion hole in the bottom (3/16 thick) was in the anchor locker where a copper wire had fallen into the muck that forms around the limber hole.

The trolling motors I repaired pulleys on some years ago, Motorguide and MinnKota, did not have plastic on the cables.

Custom aluminum working boats made in this part of the country usually are made of 5052 for the hull, with 6061 used for ribs and joining angles, etc.

-- Ed Huntress

Different topic... they were talking about the big motor. Lots of older boats used a clothesline style pulley system to between the steering motor and the big motor. It was basically a pull/pull system around the boat under the gunnels with one or two spring loaded pulleys to maintain tension. Then there was a take up drum on the back of the steering wheel.

I thought of that too. One of the things I was also considering with the aluminum ones is to cut the cable grooves deeper.

Wow, Talk about a brain fart. That should have read,

Different topic... they were talking about the big motor. Lots of older boats used a clothesline style pulley system to go between the steering wheel and the big motor. It was basically a pull/pull system around the boat under the gunnels with one or two spring loaded pulleys to maintain tension. Then there was a take up drum on the back of the steering wheel.

What are the shafts made out of? That'll make some difference in the selection of compatible materials.