Tig weld up the groove and have it OD ground. I have a Covel OD grinder if you cant get it done locally.
Free for you of course, but you pay shipping both ways.
Gunner
Rule #35 "That which does not kill you, has made a huge tactical error"
Did anybody read this surface is in the middle of the shaft. What about the other surfaces???
Clif
scratch (not
Standard method of repair in most shops. Put the shaft in a pair of V blocks so you can rotate it. Weld a bead across the groove and a bit to either side. Rotate 120 deg. and lay another bead. Rotate 120 and lay another bead. Let them cool, knock off the slag and clean them up good. Drop it back in the blocks and lay a bead to the left/top to the first one, overlap it about halfway. Rotate and lay another bead until three new beads are down. Knock off the slag and clean the welds again. Now drop it back in the blocks and weld three more beads on the right/bottom side of the first bead. Knock/clean next three beads to the left/top of the second and knock/clean and the next three to the right/bottom. Alternate the beads all the way around till you cover the worn area with weld. Now chuck the shaft in the lathe and check the runout. By welding with alternating beads it should be real close to straight. If not use a press to get the shaft straight. Now turn it down to the finished size.
I just did this repair to a shaft for a snowblower impeller drive shaft that had a bearing and drive gear fail. Left a rough tapered groove over
1" wide and about .05 - .125 deep. Started with a shaft with less than .002 out and after welding it was .0035. Took two tries to get it down to .0004 which I figure should be close enough. Shaft only turns 1500 rpm.I second the motion. A lot of motor rebuilding shops have spray metallizing equipment that will do the job in a few minutes. After building up the damaged areas, the shaft is ground back to tolerance. No sweat, no distortion. Bugs
After reading all the replies and your replies to them it seems that the best thing for you to do is first determine what kind of steel the shaft is made from, if you can. Then, if weldable, get another piece of steel rod the same diaameter or close to it. Weld on the practice shaft first and see how well you can control warping. If you have a small hydraulic press, or can cobble one together, see how well you can straighten the practice piece. If the results are not good make a a split bushing and use the bearing to retain it on the shaft. ERS
Ooh. Fifty is a bit much for that kind of thing. That would not be an appropriate solution!
Jim
SPLIT BUSHING!!!!!!!!!!! :) :) :) :)
Actually, ahma little let down now, as the Rocky music was starting to crescendo in my head, as I, uh, geared up for my mammoth welding/turning task. But, as first-time things go, I know there was agony ahead down the road, and unfortunately time is in such short supply.
Splitting the bushing: two halves? Or slit on one side and kind of force it over the shaft to the smaller diam, and muscle the bearing on?
Great thread, lernt a lot indeed, was fascinated by the spray metalizing business, and might have indeed tried it had I found a local reasonable place. Thanks to all. The split bushing, tho, sounds like the slam-dunk!! If not, I'll be back, whining away....
---------------------------- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll
ight, ahm ready for the metal-working big-time--I gotta fix a shaft, on
Industrial electric motor repair shops routinely repair shafts with your kind of damage. They will likely spray metallize it or mig it while it is spinning in a lathe.
Randy
You've never TIGged steel? If you can do aluminum, you will find TIGing steel a very easy and satisfying process. It is SO much more controllable than stick, with all that wild arc zapping all over the place, while you can't see a thing for all the darn smoke! You may want to use different electrode material for steel, but pure Argon is fine. Use DCEN with HF on start, and a pointed electrode. The filler rod usually has a copper coating to prevent rust.
This of course won't prevent warpage, but it should allow you to take your time and reduce total heating of the shaft, so the warpage should be less. You'll still have lots of stress after the weld cools, so some kind of stress relieving process would be a good idea. Jon
You've got it made! TIG it.....Mix is properly Argon/CO2 for mild steel.
Ive tried tigging with 75/25 mix, and it erodes the electode very very fast. Even if I dont drag the electrode in the puddle (blush)
Gunner
Rule #35 "That which does not kill you, has made a huge tactical error"
On Tue, 5 Apr 2005 11:52:43 -0400, "Proctologically Violated©®" wrote: The most reliable way to make a split bushing work in this situation is to first machine the worn area so it is a consistent diameter. The undercut area must be enough so that you can make a bushing with enough wall thickness for you to handle. Make two bushings, each the same length. If you want the wall thickness real thin make plugs to fit in the bushings. Put the bushings in the vise lengthwise and mill away half of each. If you can't measure accurately enough go a little more than half way, say a couple thousandths. When removed from the vise the shells may spring out or in. As long as it's not too severe it's no problem. If severe enough you will need to squeeze them if too sprung out. Make sure all measurements are accurate to insure good fit and concentricity. Cheers, Eric
PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.