Ruined my bandsaw blade yesterday

Like usual in the last week, I was cutting up steel bars on my bandsaw. I cut them up so that they fit in USPS flat rate boxes and
can be economically shipped to hobbyists.
Anyway, I took the next rectangular bar without thinking too much. It had a couple of pins in it, which shuold have tipped me off, but did not.
I loaded it into the bandsaw, turned it on, and walked away.
10 minutes lates I come back, and to my surprise, the bandsaw is still going, without having even made a dent in the bar.
A little investigation made me realize that the bar is hardened A-2 (it had it stamped on the side, it was hadr to notice).
The $40 blade is ruined.
So, I will be more careful!
i
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On Sat, 16 Feb 2013 09:03:00 -0600, Ignoramus329

Save the blade for friction sawing. It may work, if there's enough HSS in it.
--
Ed Huntress

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It may be worthwhile to attach a file to the saw, in the way that a chuck key is chained to a drill press.
An alternate tester could be a carbide-tipped scribe, I suppose, or even a hacksaw blade.
--
WB
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wrote:

> A little investigation made me realize that the bar is hardened A-2

>The $40 blade is ruined.

I thought you were going to say something stupid like "I was cutting wood with it and hit a nail or something".
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Ignoramus329 wrote:

<snip>

That's why I make blades out of 100 foot rolls of the cheap stuff. The stuff I cut tends to tear up blades, but I only pay a couple buck each (I know, now, the cost has gone way up).
Jon
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That's interesting. I was very happy with this blade. It worked very well for a long time.
i
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Ignoramus329 wrote:

I cut up all sorts of things, from cutting gold edge fingers off circuit boards to old bed rails (both really hard on blades). Also, my cheap 4x6" bandsaw doesn't have hydraulic feed. So, I tear up blades pretty quickly. Mostly I cut aluminum sheet and bar stock for machining operations, which is pretty gentle on the blades, and they will wear out from fatigue before the teeth are shot.
I did get a free sample Starrett bimetal blade, and teeth chipped off in the first couple minutes of use. So, on this saw, you can't use the expensive blades.
Jon
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Maybe the teeth were too big for your work, maybe it was too low TPI?
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wrote:

You CAN add your own "hydraulic" downfeed control with a simple cylinder and a needle valve, with a couple feet of copper tubing.
Its not rocket science.
Gunner
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Hi, what's your band saw by the way?
--
surfside


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I've seen where a Milwaukee was engineered to run string, twine or cord or something like that. I never actually saw it run, though.
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Maybe a punch and hammer would be your friend - simple test. Martin
On 2/16/2013 9:03 AM, Ignoramus329 wrote:

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message wrote in message

You could add a hook for a hacksaw to test mystery metal. I use 10-for-a-dollar blue-painted blades on unknown steel, which is most of my stock. They cut as well as good ones at first though they don't stay sharp very long.
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