SA-200 video

It welds nicely
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It is kind of amazing. We just had a toy Chinese tank break after just
30 minutes of playing. And here's this 25 year old USA made welder,
running great, with all parts available etc.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus6732
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Nice. The carb seems to be working fairly well. Have you checked the points and plugs? It is missing a bit when you put it under load.
-jim
Reply to
jim
Nice! Congratulations.
Clearly I need to acquire more 'stuff'.
jsw
Reply to
Jim Wilkins
Jim, Thanks. I will sell this SA-200. I do not really need it, I bought it to play with it, fix and sell.
I have a great Syncrowave 250, and a great Millermatic 251. They cover all I need to do. I do not plan on a journeyman weldor career, right now.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus6732
I have not checked them, but I have a feeling that they were replaced at some point, there is an invoice for various ignition related items.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus6732
One would hope so. I bet the oil also is not the original oil that came with the engine. These are frequent maintenance items and the engine missing under load suggest they need some attention.
-jim
Reply to
jim
Jim, I am not very strong when it comes to gas engines. Having seen the video under load, what would you say is the problem that you are seeing?
i
Reply to
Ignoramus6732
Ummm, it sounded like it went down to one cylinder when you started welding, and the other cyl. would occasionally fire once in a while. At least, that's what the video sounded like.
You really can't compare industrial tools with kid's toys. On the other hand, it IS nice to be able to get parts for things. Modern, Harbor Freight stuff is REALLY unlikely to have parts available next year, no less 25 years later.
Jon
Reply to
Jon Elson
I'd much rather see and hear it in person than over a Youtube video, but since you just had to de-gunk the carburetor, I'd sure lean in that direction. So, maybe the idle circuit is working, but the power circuit is still clogged and causing it to go lean at full throttle. If it ever backfires through the carburetor, that is a sure sign of running too lean. It is also possible the spark plug gap has burned wider, and under full compression is blowing out the spark.
Jon
Reply to
Jon Elson
I would guess the miss is due to either a weak spark due to worn/pitted points or a dirty spark plug. In short it could use a tune-up. Take the plugs out and clean & gap them as a start. Their color should tell you if the fuel mixture is good.
Reply to
jim
A sticky governor linkage could cause that, or leaky/oily spark plug wiring. Maybe if you load the 120VDC outlet with a space heater etc you can check the engine.
jsw
Reply to
Jim Wilkins
A sticky governor linkage could cause that, or leaky/oily spark plug wiring. Maybe if you load the 120VDC outlet with a space heater etc you can check the engine.
jsw
Just make sure the space heater does not have a fan.
tm
Reply to
tm
Missing badly under load on at least 1 if not 2 cylinders. You didn't mention if you looked at the plugs, I'd bet that you have gaps in the .060" to .080" range. A full misfire will give you the smoke and belches out the exhaust.
It runs well enough for you to put the money in it for a full fledged tune up: new plugs and points as a minimum, plug wires, cap and rotor would be an excellent investment.
While you have the plugs out, you should do a compression check. Look for all cylinders even, an old flathead should run around 85psi in moderate shape. Any engine that runs under heavy load for long periods tends to fry exhaust valves. Pull the side cover on the block and set the valves, see if that improves the compression. If not, time to pull the head and grind the valves.
Reply to
RoyJ
"jim" wrote
Checking all those things is what one should do before weld testing it. It is definitely running, but not very well. Arc strength looked intermittent. It takes longer to run to NAPA than it does to tune up one of these little four bangers.
Steve
Heart surgery pending?
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Reply to
Steve B
OTOH it runs well enough now that I'd take a chance on it, if I lived nearby and needed yet another toy.
jsw
Reply to
Jim Wilkins
Sure, that is what you eventually learn.
Yes it is about as simple as it gets if it is all easy to access. It looks like he may need to remove the shroud on top for easy access, but I can't tell from the pics
-jim
Reply to
jim
Since you have had it running now, I WOULD do a compression test to be sure you do not have a leaking or sticky valve. Then I would just go and buy a good set of plug wires and spark plugs and change them - cap and rotor too to be on the safe side. A bottle of MMO or Sea Foam in the oil to make sure the rings are not sticking and the valve stems are not gunked up will likely also make a difference in how it runs. Get it warmed up - put a few rods through it to really make it work, then change the oil and it should be as good as it gets.
If it was mine I'd check the valve clearances too, but that is a bit more involved than you really want to get, I think.
Reply to
clare
I forgot - along with the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, definitely the points and condenser, and make sure the ground wire on the breaker plate is not broken.
Reply to
clare
It is an awesome toy, I wish I had room and use for it. I would put it on wheels etc. I even have long cables.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus6732
"Gunner Asch" wrote
Gunner, how do you set top dead for the valves? Carefully with a small piece of wire? Big socket on the main pulley nut? The puffs of white smoke coming out now and again, highlighted by the arc brilliance, concern me that there is oil coming out in the exhaust, and not just unburnt gas.
I am amazed that Iggy can take on such technical projects, but has problems with an engine that's about as easy as a lawnmower to tune up and troubleshoot.
Steve
Heart surgery pending?
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Reply to
Steve B

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