Jim, Thanks. I will sell this SA-200. I do not really need it, I
bought it to play with it, fix and sell.
I have a great Syncrowave 250, and a great Millermatic 251. They cover
all I need to do. I do not plan on a journeyman weldor career, right
Ummm, it sounded like it went down to one cylinder when you started welding,
and the other cyl. would occasionally fire once in a while. At least,
that's what the video sounded like.
You really can't compare industrial tools with kid's toys. On the other
hand, it IS nice to be able to get parts for things. Modern, Harbor
Freight stuff is REALLY unlikely to have parts available next year, no less
25 years later.
I'd much rather see and hear it in person than over a Youtube video, but
since you just had to de-gunk the carburetor, I'd sure lean in that
direction. So, maybe the idle circuit is working, but the power circuit is
still clogged and causing it to go lean at full throttle. If it ever
backfires through the carburetor, that is a sure sign of running too lean.
It is also possible the spark plug gap has burned wider, and under full
compression is blowing out the spark.
I would guess the miss is due to either a weak spark due to worn/pitted
points or a dirty spark plug. In short it could use a tune-up. Take the
plugs out and clean & gap them as a start. Their color should tell you
if the fuel mixture is good.
A sticky governor linkage could cause that, or leaky/oily spark plug
wiring. Maybe if you load the 120VDC outlet with a space heater etc
you can check the engine.
Just make sure the space heater does not have a fan.
Missing badly under load on at least 1 if not 2 cylinders. You didn't
mention if you looked at the plugs, I'd bet that you have gaps in the
.060" to .080" range. A full misfire will give you the smoke and belches
out the exhaust.
It runs well enough for you to put the money in it for a full fledged
tune up: new plugs and points as a minimum, plug wires, cap and rotor
would be an excellent investment.
While you have the plugs out, you should do a compression check. Look
for all cylinders even, an old flathead should run around 85psi in
moderate shape. Any engine that runs under heavy load for long periods
tends to fry exhaust valves. Pull the side cover on the block and set
the valves, see if that improves the compression. If not, time to pull
the head and grind the valves.
Checking all those things is what one should do before weld testing it. It
is definitely running, but not very well. Arc strength looked intermittent.
It takes longer to run to NAPA than it does to tune up one of these little
Heart surgery pending?
Sure, that is what you eventually learn.
Yes it is about as simple as it gets if it is all easy to access. It
looks like he may need to remove the shroud on top for easy access, but
I can't tell from the pics
Since you have had it running now, I WOULD do a compression test to
be sure you do not have a leaking or sticky valve. Then I would just
go and buy a good set of plug wires and spark plugs and change them -
cap and rotor too to be on the safe side. A bottle of MMO or Sea Foam
in the oil to make sure the rings are not sticking and the valve
stems are not gunked up will likely also make a difference in how it
runs. Get it warmed up - put a few rods through it to really make it
work, then change the oil and it should be as good as it gets.
If it was mine I'd check the valve clearances too, but that is a bit
more involved than you really want to get, I think.
"Gunner Asch" wrote
Gunner, how do you set top dead for the valves? Carefully with a small
piece of wire? Big socket on the main pulley nut? The puffs of white smoke
coming out now and again, highlighted by the arc brilliance, concern me that
there is oil coming out in the exhaust, and not just unburnt gas.
I am amazed that Iggy can take on such technical projects, but has problems
with an engine that's about as easy as a lawnmower to tune up and
Heart surgery pending?