Lincoln SA-200 Starter: repair or replace?

I took the starter off and everything is just what the "smart guys" said: the brushes on it are worn to the nub.
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Lincoln-SA-200/01-Starter/
In addition, the copper contacts that touch the brushes, are also in a bad condition.
I wonder if, perhaps, this rotor/armature is hopelessly worn?
Should I get something like this?
http://ef.algebra.com/e/350421445541
Also, how hard is it to replace this armature? Does the gear come off easily?
Or should I just give up and buy a complete starter replacement ($162)?
Thanks!
i P.S. the good news is that everything else looks serviceable and generally easy to understand.
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On Mar 30, 8:41 pm, Ignoramus23509 <ignoramus23...@NOSPAM. 23509.invalid> wrote:

You could try turning the commutator smooth before giving up on it. Undercut the insulation in the slots between the bars with a hacksaw blade.
jsw
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I will think about it. It looks really bad.
What about "aftermarket" replacement statrers, are they any good?
i
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On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 18:56:59 -0700 (PDT), Jim Wilkins

what's your time worth? You should rpelace the bearings and bendix plus a few other wear parts at the same time. My local rebuild shop does this for $100 with warranty and the individual parts cost $50. No brainer for me, I even rebuild starters whenever it comes off for any other reason. i think the savings in grief and batteries cover it.
Karl
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Karl, so with parts and cost, it is $150?
if so, I can get a "OEM replacement" starter for about that much and not even drive to the rebuild shop.
How good are those replacement starters?
i
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On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 21:33:54 -0500, Ignoramus23509

I'm blessed. An old fella near me does the whole rebuild for $80 - $90 total but don't rush him. He can upgrade to better than new by putting in stronger field coils. He's done all my needs for over twenty years now. Not sure how good a person you can find in the big city. This is a perfect one man shop industry so there's quite a few to choose from.
Karl
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Ignoramus23509 wrote:

I bet if you can pull the rotor out and mount it on your lathe you could turn the commutator down to an acceptable finish. Add some new brushes and a general cleaning and the starter will probably work just fine. After all the starter runs for like 10 seconds each time you start the engine, so in personal use the starter run time per year is minutes.
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Pete, look at this picture.
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Lincoln-SA-200/01-Starter/01-Starter-0006.jpg
The commutator looks like shit.
i
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On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 21:34:49 -0500, Ignoramus23509

That sucker is DONE. But since it is quite possibly the highest production starter EVER built, replacements should be readily available at a good price. Lots of used ones floating around too.
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What about this one?
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=REL440448_0307348049
It is at NAPA. This is a reman starter. Just $62.
This one:
http://ef.algebra.com/e/270518015493
Cost is $110 after core charge is subtracted, but this one is complete.
Do you think that my old starter has a core value?
i
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On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 22:00:46 -0500, Ignoramus23509

If the reman company is still accepting cores for the MT10, yes, yours still has gore value enless the drive end housing is damaged.
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On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 22:00:46 -0500, Ignoramus23509

You just bought a $19 solenoid, right?? Put it on the $62 starter and you have a $81 starter. If you buy the $110 starter, you have $129 invested. Do the math.
You are going to start this thing how often????
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Ignoramus23509 wrote:

That is not repairable at any reasonable cost. The commutator segments are completely shot and there is no way you can recut it. It looks like the segments are burned off on the ends too.
I never had any trouble with the replacement starters.
John
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OK, I got it. I will get it from Napa, or a complete unit from ebay.
Now, my guess is that this starter is so bad, the welder is unusable with it. Perhaps, then, this is why the company where I bought it, stopped using it?
In other words, since this problem precludes use of the welder, then perhaps there are no other significant problems?
Am I making sense?
I am just saying, I would be unlikely to find two "showstopper" problems in any given machine.
i
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On Mar 31, 12:12 am, Ignoramus23509 <ignoramus23...@NOSPAM. 23509.invalid> wrote:

I apply that test when buying used equipment too. It seems that when one part is so worn that the machine is unusable, several others may be close to failing. Accidental damage is different.
Then there was the arc welder I bought from a band roadie that had been dropped and the wheels bent, the control lever was weakly glued together and the clutch worn out, the fan was frozen, and a botched panel jack repair had shorted the secondary and smoked the winding. It was actually a fairly easy fix.
jsw
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Jim Wilkins wrote:

Once a machine dies and sits around for a while, parts slowly disappear.
John
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Ignoramus23509 wrote:

If the company that owned the unit didn't do basic maintenance like replacing the starter brushes, that would imply that the unit probably didn't see much other maintenance either.
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On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 23:12:30 -0500, Ignoramus23509

I'd say you have a fighting chance. Does the engine have a crank nut on the front pulley?? Looks like the starter may have been something less than intermittent for some time. If it got too hard to start with the crank and they figured it was too old to bother fixing, it might still be OK. Might kill mosquitos for a mile or so, too.
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John wrote:

It appears to me that most of the commutator segments are ok, and the couple that look bad are the ones under the brushes when the motor finally refused to turn and were likely cooked by an idiot holding the starter button down when the motor wasn't turning. I don't think it's in as bad shape as it looks on the surface.
It will cost Iggy nothing but an hour taking it apart and playing on his lathe to give it a try.
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Ignoramus23509 wrote:

Yep, it certainly isn't great, but we aren't talking about space shuttle actuator motors here, it's just an engine starter. Turn 0.010" off of it and install new brushes and it will likely work fine for years.
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