Sandbags in the bed of a pickup truck (2023 Update)

Just remember (not sure if this was covered) that the compound on blizzaks happens to be very, very soft. So much so that they actually make them dual-compounded IIRC, the first part is very soft and 'works' in snow, but if driven for any length of time on clean pavement, will wear rapidly. There is a harder compound rubber underneath.

Never buy blizzaks 'used only one season...'

Jim

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Reply to
jim rozen
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Thanks. The search that worked was Blizzak W965. They have the size for my 3500 dually - LT215/85R16 in load range E. A bit pricey but they have them. They have them in the size for Tiph's truck too.

Thanks Fitch

Reply to
Fitch R. Williams

Why?

JTMcC.

Reply to
JTMcC

The new ones are a LOT better than the early ones. 55% of the tread is the sticky stuff, and if you don't get them too warm they stand up pretty well. Don't drive over 60mph on dry pavement, and don't accellerate hard enough to spin, and you're good. Even the hard part works pretty good on snow, but the soft outer layer is GREAT on ice.

Reply to
clare

Well, for one thing, the fenders are fiberglass. Second, getting the chains on and off on a dual wheel setup is a genuine PITA. The Blizzaks are rated as "extreme traction" tires, so even in the passes where chains are required, if under 10,000 lbs you are legal without chains. I'd do almost anything NOT to have to put the chains on, drive with the chunk-chunk of the chains through the bad stuff, and then take them off again when I hit good pavement. Chains don't stand up worth a hoot on pavement at speed. I've driven with chains on the PowerWagon, and on the Dart. Drove with studs on the Valiant, and clampons on the Renault and Colt rallye cars. The clampons were easy to put on and off, and were a definite help in heavy snow - but useless on ice. Didn't like chains on ice either. Studs and ice tires are about tie for first on ice and hardpack - and the ice tires are SO much quieter on pavement - and safer.

Reply to
clare

The real problems with chains seem to me to center around a couple of areas. I've run chains on my small Toy pickup for a couple of years, and I've made the following observations:

1) They work great when the snow or ice is really thick.

2) They're a pain to put on.

3) Speed should be restricted to below about 30 mph when using

4) Even then the chains will throw a link now and then and require a stop to repair or remove the broken cross link that is battering around.

5) Most times around here, the snow on the roads is so uneven that chains are not a good choice. Some towns plow right down to the pavement and then the chains get roughed up a lot, and because traffic speeds increase again, the speed limit imposed by chains makes driving with them dangerous - obstructing traffic and all.

6) Crawing around in the snow and ice to remove/install/repair chains is uncomfortable and if done by the side of the road in a storm, downright hazardous.

7) Studded snow tires seem to suffer from none of the above problems.

Jim

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Reply to
jim rozen

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I found the perfect use for all those tire chains I happened to drag along with me when I moved south,.

I cut ther links on the cross chains off the long chain that goes around the tire, and fasten them to fence posts with a couple of fence wire staples and use them for gate latches. Makes a perfect "goat proof" latch. I sure don't miss chains, studs, snow tires and bags of sand asnd deicer one little bit. All we have to do is wait an hour or two and any snow or ice that may have fallen or accumulates is usually history. Its rare indeed to be hindered by winter conditions in this area. But just move 200 miles east to Atlanta and its a different ball game, same for 100 miles north to Birmingham area, it gets cold and often sees frozen ice covered and snow covered roadways.

One thing I always enjoyed doing when I lived in Pennsylvania, and that was to be out driving in a snow storm on a country road in 6 or more inches of new snow. It was always so quiet, and peacefull, just the occasional squeak of snow under the tires and most outside noises just muffled.

Around here the big thing is "mud" tires ;-) Visit my website:

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Reply to
Roy

I drive about 50,000 miles per year in a 1 ton and I'm on my third one now and I think it's a heck of a lot easier to chain one up than it is on any car, and as easy as any pickup. Chains are a bit of a pain to install on anything. But when you really need them nothing else will do. Of course most folks are just staying home at that point, but my work means we have to go, unless the front bumper is plowing snow, and that means chains on occasion. As for weight in the bed, we use about 5000 lbs. of welding machine/tools, well secured of course, and it works pretty good. On the occasions I have to drive a lightly or unloaded 1 ton it always amazes me just how little traction is available compared to a fully loaded truck. Our trucks are usually around 10,500 - 11,000.

JTMcC, still happily carrying chains in the trucks.

Reply to
JTMcC

cable chains are a very good product and mitigate if not solve most of the problems w/link chains. they cost 2-3x, but last 3x longer. they are hard to find, some places, because of the cost overhead in stocking a decent selection of sizes. they used to be called, "radial tire" chains, & can be ordered from a full line parts house.

--Loren

Reply to
Loren Coe

Still very funny, 19 yrs later.

Reply to
summit64

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