sawzall or reciprocating saw tips?

I bought this cheap version of "sawzall" but it's a craftsman one for
like $60.
Perhaps it's a craftsman one instead of the real sawzall and it sucks,
or maybe someone can tell me what they think.
I found it to be an overweighted clumsy tool that does not cut as well
(and easy) as my hacksaw. Maybe I am expecting too much and it's
meant for cutting wood?
The problem is that I think the object to be cut needs to be clamped
down. I am used to a little air compressor powered saw which is the
size as an air ratchet and that one can zip throw sheet metal very
well, where as this sawzall clone just vibrates the hell out of the
metal and doesn't really cut. Do I need finer teeth blade?
I was standing on a junked muffler (so it's secured), trying to cut an
hanger off and it's barely notching the metal. I don't know what the
problem is.. Put it under a chop saw instead and it comes off in 3
seconds.
I feel like this thing can only cut styloform and wood. Great for
trimming the trees in my backyard I bet!
Reply to
jj3000
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Sawzalls and the competing brands are very handy tools, but mostly for rough work and not for serious metal cutting. You need good, bimetal blades -- and don't set your expectations too high.
Mill
Reply to
MP Toolman
I would like to find a set of diamond files, mill and bastard file attachments for my cordless Milwaukee Hatchet. Has any one seen any files for sawzalls yet?
Reply to
Jeteye
I dunno abnaout setting expectations to high, as the Porter Cable Tiger Saw I have been using is sure one nice saw, and its accuracy is dependant on the operator. I agree its not worth your time to buy cheap blades and you'll get more mileage out of bimetal. I have cut a heap of stuff so far and its proven to be a great saw. Of course I can't speak for Crapsman brand or the others but the Pporter Cable is great, and I would surely think a MiIlwaukee would be just as good as well. Work getting cut generally needs to be held firmly, and the saw needs to be held firmly against the work.
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Reply to
Roy
I just finished cutting 12 pieces of 2" angle with my Skil using 24 tpi bi-metal blades. My buddy laughed when he got a look at the saw and started breaking out his OA rig to do the cutting. I was through the first piece before he got his tourch lit. It helps to use a little bit of oil on each cut and it takes a bit of practice to get a straight cut. You will have to clamp the work down. With mild steal or conduit, the blades last a long time. But if you are cutting rebar forget it. Good luck.
Reply to
Frank A.
The sawzall clones have a shorter stroke than the real thing so a few teeth do all the cutting, and then break off. The work needs to either be well-anchored or heavy enough for the teeth to do any cutting at all. You can try resting the shoe on the work.
Full speed is too fast for metal, just burns up even a good bimetal blade. Yes you need a fine enough pitch blade to keep a few teeth in the work.
The sawzall is a good last-ditch tool, like for chopping structural steel in the boeing surplus yard. Hacksaw is better for many things.
Reply to
Bob Powell
I have silver soldered a few "attachments" to old blade shanks with great results but I haven't seen comercial versions.
Reply to
Tom Gardner
The real trick is to lube and to keep the shoe on the work. This means push against the work as it saws. Using the correct pitch blade is important - e.g. the 3 tooth in the metal at a time rule is kept here if possible.
And yes - I have a 18" blade for limb cutting - it is green after all - and it slices the end of the Christmas tree every year. Don't remember ever doing any sawing on a tree, but heck - a long extension cord and a saw up the tree might be nicer than a chain saw in the same hands.
Martin [ beneath 150 foot (British Imperial foot) Coastal Redwood trees ]
Reply to
Eastburn
I trim my palm trees with my Sawzall. Tie Wrap the trigger down, tape it with duct tape to an old extendable pool net pole, and when Im ready..plug in the extension cord. Works pretty good and I only have to do it once a year.
Im thinking about either cutting the damned things down, or trying to sell them. I planted them from 6" pots about 10 yrs ago..and now they are about 25' tall.
Mexican fan palm...shrug
Gunner
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Reply to
Gunner
For most sawzall type metal cutting you only dull the first inch of teeth from the saw "shoe" 2 ways to get more life from the blade
1 make a shoe extension that extends the shoe past the dull portion and screws to the existing shoe.
2 grind and snap the dull portion away and grind a new tab on the blade for the saw to hold
and of course ANY oil when cutting is better than none.
Reply to
Beecrofter
On 25 Nov 2003 06:59:45 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@localnet.com (Beecrofter) wrote something ......and in reply I say!:
But in both cases remember not to make the blade so short that its tip comes up into the cut when it retracts.
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Reply to
Old Nick
If you can sell the palms - someone will love them!
I lived in So. Ca. and we had wimpy Queen palms at the time. THey were ok, but more fan than go. Maybe that made them best.
Grew up across the street from a massive date palm that was planted in the 30's. It was 20 years old at the time - and last I saw it 10 years ago that sucker was bigger! Tons of dates and falling fronds.
Martin
Reply to
Eastburn

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