add greatly
Thank you for that tidbit of information. That makes me feel better. I started looking into it but couldn't figure out how much the concrete affected things.
I have a strong desire to know what it is costing to heat the room. I decided to wire in a 240v Hobbs hour meter into the heater circuit so I can do a bit of math and dial the temperature up to what I can reasonably afford. Sure wish they made a 240v version of the Kill-A-Watt.
Wes
So do I, but I also wish the kill-a-watt had a capacitor to tide it over small power outages. It forgets everything for the least little glitch that doesn't even show up on a clock. Still, amazing bang for the buck - but an hour-meter or customer watt-hour meter (not too hard to come by) is probably actually better than a forgetful kill-a-watt for totaling.
I suspect an "adaptor" cord wired so one leg of the 240v ran through the Kill-A-Watt would work. Just double the reading it comes up with. At least that is what I would do/explore if I really needed to use it for 240v (shrug).
I would want to be reassured that the Kill-A-Watt could carry the current, say ~40A in the case of a kitchen range. Gerry :-)} London, Canada
You are absolutely correct. The Hobbs hour meter, given that I'm using a relay switched line thermostat, will give answers with only a bit of pencil or spreadsheet pushing.
Now for something really wierd, uncle made a table lamp with a utility meter, to make it spin twice as fast, he ran the 120v in one leg and then in the other leg.
Wes
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