Speed up gate opener suggestions

You can easily and cheaply run 12 volt electricity more than 1/4 mile. I use bare aluminum electric fence wire, sold cheap in 1/4 and 1/2 mile spools, strung high between cheap electric fence insulators far apart in trees or whatever. At 12 volts you don't need insulation, just start out with maybe 18 volts and put a current limiter in series - a 100 watt incandescent will limit the current to less than 1/2 amp even if the line gets a dead short. Your 5 watt solar panel provides less than 1/2 watt when the sun is shining, a wire can provide that much 24 hours a day if you pick the appropriate current limiter. Committees of Correspondence Web page:- tinyurl.com/y7th2c

Reply to
Nick Hull
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Hi Andy,

Almost, I currently have it at 6" which is as close as I can get without the ram hitting the post.

Reply to
Jenny3kids

Hi Wayne,

Interesting point. I assumed it was 12v but the output from the old Sat controller is dead so I cannot measure the drive voltage. I'll get the model number from the old Satellite controller and maybe someone can help with that.

Thanks

Reply to
Jenny3kids

Hi Nick,

Thanks, but if I did that I would run 110v AC from the well head and go back to using the garage door opener. The weatherproof 110 cabling needed was going to cost about a buck a foot. I suppose I could look around for surplus wire. There are no trees so I would also have to put in a few poles. Getting too complicated.

I actually tested the original garage door opener by running two

600+ft extension leads on the ground.
Reply to
Jenny3kids

Hi Don,

Funny you should mention that I was thinking along similar lines but using chain. I would mount a worm-drive motor on a bracket on the 2" diameter hinge-post with say a 6" drive sprocket. The chain would wrap around the sprocket and connect to stand-offs on both sides of the gate.

Running the motor CW would pull the gate open and CCW would pull it shut. Not sure how much power it would take though especially in a strong wind, it can sometimes feel like pushing a 100lb gate to close it manually.

I have not looked at the practicality of this approach with CAD but am also thinking along those lines just for fun.

Reply to
Jenny3kids

Don,

I agree, I am caught up in it and have been for about 6 months. I could have bought probably 10 Mules (openers, not the furry things) if I charged my time out at $1/hr. At least I entertain my neighbors. "Oh look, she's using cables now..." "Oh look she is back to the garage door opener." "Oh look... LOL

Reply to
Jenny3kids

Jenny, consider using the garage door opener to pull on block-and-tackle effectors so that the mechanical advantage is increased, and total throw is decreased. You could do two sets of blocks operating in opposition to one-another to open or close the gate under power. "Automatic" 2:1 or 4:1 advantage for just a few bucks.

That might solve your overload limit problem.

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Sounds like my boatlift. $20 in parts, $5K if anyone paid for my time. But it works, and it was fun.

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Reply to
Don Foreman

Hi Don,

Well the good news might be that after some suggestion here about the dish controller being 24v I was able to track down a manual for the old Sat box. Seems it is 36vdc and 140W output. Now I have to figure out how to solar charge 36v of batteries.

I'll start a new thread.

Reply to
Jenny3kids

Think "hobbies". Lots of multi-cell chargers out there for electric models that step 12V up to as much as 48V with inverters or flyback circuits.

Most of them are designed to quick-charge NiCd cells, so you'll probably need some series resistance on the charging leg (or re-adjustment of the current limit, if possible).

There are also numerous very simple "step up converter" power supply designs floating around the web. You might check out National Semiconductor's Linear Applications Notes area for ideas.

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Excuse my electrical ignorance, but can't you just charge all 3 batteries in parallel (12 volt), and draw from them in series (36 volt) ?

Reply to
Dave Lyon

Hi Dave,

Not sure I can see how that might work without some relays. If the batteries are connected in parallel then how will you get them to also series?

Reply to
Jenny3kids

Hi Lloyd,

Yup, I haven't given up on the dc-dc converter at this point. I had not thought about high speed NiCad chargers that run frm 12vdc.

Reply to
Jenny3kids

A second set of wires should do it. One set in parallel going to the charger, a second set in series going to the motor.

Reply to
Dave Lyon

Nope; but an array of blocking diodes would.

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Don't think so. I tried doing it with diodes etc but couldn't come up with a scheme. I think the easiest way may be to use a small DC to DC from the charger to the battery bank. ie. connect the batteries in series all the time and boost the charger to the required voltage to charge a 36 volt battery. That way the converter need not handle the higher current on load. ...lew...

Reply to
Lew Hartswick

How did you do it? I couldn't. Draw us a schematic. Post it somewhere and give us a URL. Please. ...lew...

Reply to
Lew Hartswick

I'd be tempted to use a spring or weight mechanism to open it quickly and the actuator to reset everything.

Not quite sure how right now, but....

Reply to
Rick

RV dealers have them in stock for charging banks of batteries in motor homes.

Gunner

"Liberalism is a philosophy of consolation for Western civilization as it commits suicide"

- James Burnham

Reply to
Gunner

I spouted off too quickly. It works fine with caps and an AC charger, not with DC...

So, we're back to charging at the series voltage, or relays to switch 'em.

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

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