Spin Index Questions

I have yet to come across any written instructions for the proper use of a spin index, so it seems that knowledge of their operation is assumed to be passed down from one machinist to the next in professional shops. Which is fine if you work in a shop, but not so helpful otherwise.

I understand that they are used to rotationally index every 10 degrees directly off the 36 hole plate, and every 1 degree via the 10 vernier holes (and I fully understand how the vernier works). I also understand that they are designed for 5C collets (or work-holders with 5C shanks). So there's no need to dwell on those points. But there are some additional features of the spin index that are not intuitive.

For example, the spindle is considerably longer than the body. There is a retaining ring (with three set screws) that keeps the spindle snug against the bearing surfaces of the body, but if this ring is loosened or removed, then the spindle can slide axially in and out of the body. According to marketing literature for a typical spin index, the "spindle travels 2-1/16 inches for flute grinding" which would explain the length of the spindle. But what isn't clear is how one maintains the index position when the spindle is slid out of the body. Because once you slide the spindle out, the indexing pin is no longer able to engage the hole in the indexing plate and the entire spindle turns freely.

The next question is, what is the purpose of the locking screw (on the top of the body, it screws down against the spindle)? Since the spindle is held in position by the indexing pin, the locking screw seems redundant? Unless the spindle is supposed to be locked with the screw, then the indexing pin removed to prevent wear or damage to the indexing holes. But if that's the case, then the locking screw seems woefully under-designed, as it has a very small bearing face upon which to make contact with the spindle. (In fact, since the locking screw acts radially against the spindle, under ideal conditions it will only make line contact against the spindle.)

Finally, I'm just curious about the original intended purpose of the spin index. I realize that it's pressed into many applications where you need to machine a part in increments of degrees. But then again, there are several other tools available for that purpose such as the dividing head and rotary table (and those tools are typically more versatile). Was the spin index purposely built specifically for end mill or reamer flute grinding, or was it always intended to be a general purpose rotary index?

Thanks in advance for any info.

- Michael

Reply to
DeepDiver
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I have also used one to help shape the end of small plastic cylinders. Think Unicam resharpening fixture. Slides in and out as you rotate. Needs a prototype mounted on the back end and a horizontally mounted stylus.

Vertical stylus. Just the way you would on a "regular" end mill grinding fixture. Doesn't allow you to easily do primary and secondary angles though.

You don't use the indexing pin.

Because once you slide the spindle out, the

DOC

Reply to
DOC

Hey Michael,

SNIP

Most of my use is to grind a diameter on a shaft held in the 5-C

MORE SNIP

I tapped through that aluminum screw for 1/4-20, then made a decent dimple on my barrel that a long and pointed-end 1/4" cap screw could pick to lock the barrel, while still allowing the original screw to be used to put drag on the barrel if the 1/4" was backed off enough. I made a scribe mark on the free end of the barrel to show where the lock-point is. Works a treat to hold the barrel while tightening the collets. I first used to try using the index lock-pin, but found that the index plate would just turn too before I got the collet tight. I've always kept that little barrel collar off the free end as the end-play adjustment, and have never loosened it to try anything else.

Take care.

Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario.

Reply to
Brian Lawson

We use them to make small core pins on a surface grinder. Their size is much handier than a rotary table would be. My guess is they were always intended for general purpose grinding. Their accuracy typically isn't good enough for cutter sharpening. Depending of course on the accuracy you need for your cutter.

Reply to
Dave Lyon

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