Stacked set screws? (2025 Update)

When one set screw is used it is in contact with one side of the thread groove and any motion will loosen it. When a second screw is used the inner one will be pushed to the other side of the v-groove and now both screws are always in contact with the groove but on opposite sides of it eliminating motion to loosen them. Should work... phil

Not uncommon in my experience, the last time I ran into it was on my J head Bridgeport on the motor pulley.

It takes two screws in the thread to obstruct passage. They push against each other so both sides of the groove are sealed. Plus, the screws lock each other in place even if the inner one is not in contact with something. phil k.

My log splitter (SF=2.0) came with an L095 and hasn't given trouble running almost at the limit for a black Buna rubber spider. The same engine and coupler on the sawmill (SF=2.2) damaged the spider.

The web site insists that I register or log in, so I've seen nothing of that site.

I know that in the Bridgeport spindle for R8 collets there is one place where a dog-point setscrew is topped by a setscrew which is ground short enough so the Allen key can pass though the top one to adjust the protrusion of the dog point. Then you back out the key so it turns only the fully hollow setscrew to tighten it to lock the other in place.

I also have used a square-headed setscrew over a normal setscrew to lock it in place in the squirrel-cage blower in my furnace. That has worked well compared to using only the original setscrew.

Good Luck, DoN.

After upsizing from an L095 to an L099 Lovejoy coupler I haven't seen any trouble. The L095 which has been satisfactory driving a log splitter hydraulic pump for 20+ years was apparently overstressed at the higher load service factor of the bandsaw mill. The setscrews kept loosening and the rubber spider that connects the driving and driven couplers disintegrated. Changing from the 5.5HP engine borrowed from the log splitter to a 6.5HP 212CC HF Predator made it worse. That's a very nice engine for $99, though.

The drive clutch is a belt tightener between the engine and the speed reducer. With the engine off and clutch disengaged the belt slips but when it's running the heavy motorcycle wheels continued to spin the engine after shutting it off, until the new belt and pulleys wore smooth. This reversed the direction of torque on the couplers' shaft keys and may have loosened the setscrews.

I fixed and hooked up the (crashed) bike's speedometer and let the wheels coast down to 10MPH before shutting off, which seems to reduce the torsional shocks. The speedo is also useful to show the speed and load on the blade and how far it runs before dulling. The recommended

I don't understand why the loose belt behaves like a centrifugal clutch that engages above some belt speed. It does this whether the engine or the wheels are driving, but slips when turned by hand or during gradual engagement at startup, with the engine at idle. It seems to lock up around 20MPH wheel speed.

I didn't use a centrifugal clutch because I want to be able to disengage the drive instantly if anything goes wrong.

For me I can see login and register but the rest of the thread is readable without doing either, maybe it's because I have a script blocker active so Javascript is disabled for the site.