Oh....that must really smart.
!!!
Gunner, who has shot frozen ones at pit bulls roaming the neighborhood
One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that, in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid. Gunner Asch
Why such a dick, Doug? Many electrical inspectors disagree. You can't arbitrarily combine wiring methods, you need a proper transition. Romex needs to be secured and it's quite clear that running it through a few inches of EMT does not secure the cable.
NEC Article 358.22 along with Article 334, and Table 1, Chapter 9 seem to suggest that NM would be permitted to be installed in EMT as-is, however there is no reason *not* to strip the jacket after the NM clamp, given that the OP will need to strip the jacket off a foot later anyway inside the load center.
Running the NM (Romex) exposed may be ok if the location can be considered no subject to physical damage, but it is rather ugly. The EMT will look better and can be painted to blend in.
I most certainly know what I'm talking about, and what I posted is the correct way to do the job. I've done many extensive permitted and inspected electrical projects in multiple jurisdictions and have not one had any complaint from the inspectors. Indeed many of the inspectors have commented that my work was among the neatest jobs they had seen.
If the AHJ for your trailer park is ok with your sloppy work and ignores the catch-all "workman like manner" stipulation in the NEC then your garbage is fine for your trailer park.
NEC Article 334.15(B) Protection from physical damage. The cable shall be protected from physical damage where necessary by conduit, electrical metallic tubing...
Whether protection from physical damage is necessary is open to interpretation based on the actual conditions of the installation, so the OP needs to look at the installation and think like an inspector.
They also make a gadget called a "kicker" that makes those bends in a single operation if you need to make a lot of them.
The EMT to NM transition fitting at the point where the NM enters the EMT takes care of the securing of the NM, and the EMT to enclosure fitting where the EMT terminates at the load center enclosure takes care of securing there.
Doug thinks you don't need that, either, if I'm reading correctly.
I see the requirements have changed between the 2005 and 2008 Codes. I was not aware of that. Thank you for the correction.
Doug doesn't seem to understand that while the NEC code sections do not explicitly detail every last fitting required, the NEC does specify that the cables and conduits are to be secured (except when fished though inaccessible spaces), and the use of the proper fittings falls under the catch-all "workman like manner" requirement.
When I was a teen (50 plus years ago) we found out that certain marbles fit nicely within 1/2" conduit. A four foot length makes a wonderful blow dart!
Ivan Vegvary
snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote in news:i18qt1$jat$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:
Yeah, but I was single then & liked a challenge. It looks a whole lot cleaner without all the extra fittings. The basement was semi-finished, and I was trying to keep things tidy.
Doug White
"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in news:i18h6h$fh$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:
Thanks to the wonderful work of the electrician who installed it, the breaker box is mounted about an inch & a half off the wall. I just spent a couple evenings securing it better. If I do as you suggest, I could run the cable down the wall OK, the bit that would be fuggly is the bend where it comes out the bottom of the box and heads for the wall. They make nice right angle clamp connectors for BX & the like, but they don't seem to have them for NMSC.
I would love to be able to come out the back of the box, but it's mounted on a sheet of 1/2" plywood, and I'd have to take it down completely to bore holes through the wood big enough to clear the usual metal Romex clamps. I might be able to pop in one of the plastic clamps that install from inside, which would be very tidy. Then it would be a straight shot down the wall, and I could cover it with wiremold.
More things to ponder/investigate.
Doug White
"Buerste" wrote in news:i1905g$ntk$ snipped-for-privacy@speranza.aioe.org:
Oh, I've had a LOT of fun over the years with conduit. If you roll up & tape a narrow cone of paper and run a long sheet rock screw in from the back, you get a very functional blow gun dart. About 4 feet of EMT is right. We used to call them "hoob tubes" from the sound you make blowing a dart out at high speed. There are probably still holes & the occasional wood screw scattered around my old dorm at MIT from experiments. Driven with an air charged fire extinguisher, they could be deadly.
Conduit blow guns are also very effective with "spit wads". MIT used to have a weird toilet paper called Springfield Oval that had a special 1- sheet-at-a-time dispenser. A sheet of Springfield Oval was the perfect material to wet down, wad up & launch from a Hoob Tube.
Then there was the "Doomsday Wad" someone made from several entire rolls. But I digress...
Doug White
I got pretty good at eye-balling, guessing and just a tape measure. The biggest problem was avoiding a "dogleg" in the offset too. Amazing what you can learn if you do it often enough :)
snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote in news:i1a111$if5$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:
I had a wacky thought that would probably address the problem in a "workman" like manner. The conduit connector that comes up into the box requires a nut with the same thread as an standard NMSC cable clamp. if I could get an overly long nut, I could use it to lock the EMT connector in place, and then thread the NMSC clamp into the top. The nut (actually more of a threaded sleeve) would have to be about 3/4" long.
The catch is that the threads are 13/16"-14, which is a very weird size. Unless it is used elsewhere in the electrical world for some sort of fitting, I'd probably have to make one up from scratch.
Although it's going to be a royal pain in the neck, I think my best bet is to chisel the plywood backer away behind the breaker box. The lowest knockouts in the back are close enough to the bottom that I think I can do that and get an NMSC clamp in. All I have to do is get enough of the plywood out of the way from behind the knockout. One option is to bust out the largest knockout, bore out the wood, and then use a reducing washer to shrink the hole back down. I shoudl be able to slip a reducing washer up behind the panel on top of the plywood. I can then cover the Romex with Wiremold, and it will be even tidier looking than the conduit approach.
Doug White
:-)
And I had almost forgotten that "Invention of the Devil". :-) You say "used to have" which suggests that you know that it has been discontinued. Any idea when? And why? (Maybe the company died. :-)
Which size sheet -- from a nearly full roll, a half empty one, or a nearly empty one? Since the tear point was at a specific location, each sheet was a bit smaller than the previous one.
Launched by what? Lab hose powered catapult, or a quick dump of compressed gas of some form?
The Springfield Oval (in quantity) also made a nice emergency dam, when the occupants of a dorm room were trying to flood the hall by running water from the sink (near the door) to an area defined by the door and a semi-circle of wet towels.
Enjoy, DoN.
It's not a weird size at all...half inch pipe thread, straight or tapered
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@Katana.d-and-d.com:
For many years, MIT was the only place left on the planet that used it. my understanding was that the company finally decided to stop making it.
It didn't make too much difference. If you had a fresh roll, you usually had to shape the wad into a bit of a cylinder.
It was hurled by hand. Made a hell of a thump when it hit my door...
Ah, the simple joys of youth...
Doug White
"Rick" wrote in news:1fCdncey_uLWcqXRnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
Aha! Thanks! I haven't detected any sign of taper on the electrical parts I've checked. That suggests that a straight threaded coupler could work. I found several 1/2" NPT couplers in brass or stainless, but haven't found any with straight threads (NPS).
The quest continues...
Doug White
Doug White wrote in news:Xns9DB1CDFC76C90gwhitealummitedu@69.16.186.50:
It looks like there is something called a "merchants coupling" that will do the trick. McMaster has them if I can't find one locally.
At least that gives me a backup plan if I can't remove enough wood from behind the panel to install a regular Romex clamp.
Doug White
Some of the very old electrical stuff Ive snagged over the years has had the taper, but I guess the industry discovered that in such short threads..it wasnt necessary, particularly when tightening against a shoulder as most of it does these days.
Gunner
One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that, in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid. Gunner Asch
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