- posted
4 years ago
Sucker rod
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- posted
4 years ago
I'd get an adapter that fits the old gear on one end and the colun on the end - likely a rag joint. What column are you using? Borgeson makes rag joints for just about any combination. U joints too. The new column sounds like it is what is called a double D. Is the "tubular" part by chance 3/4"? Is the double d 3/4 or 1 inch? Borgeson makes solid couplers from 3/3" smoothe to the double d for $17 to $19 - made for the job and you know it will be safe if installed according to design. 314900 for 3/4 inch DD and 315200 for 1 inch DD
They also make the shafts you need. Get a catalog from Yogi's in Monticello Iowa - 800-373-1937
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- posted
4 years ago
Using a 47 to 59 Chevy truck column? It will be 1 "D - Or a 70-74 Mopar it will be 3/4" DD
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- posted
4 years ago
If you are removing the outer housing of the F100 column and cutting off the inner tube where it goes into the bottom "guide tube" I'd be drilling and pinning the insert into the shaft instead of welding it. I'd use a tapered bolt - like the "cotter bolt" used on older bicycle pedals or a triumph motorcycle kick-start instead of welding it - then the alloy isn't critical.. You won't want to use a rag joint or a u-joint on that application because you don't have an adequate bearing in the top of the box to take any side thrust. Also, how are you sealing the top of the box where the inner shaft enters the "guide" tube. There is NO SEAL in there!!! How do you keep water and dirt from getting into the steering box????
Might wan tto see if you can find an early Toyota truck steering box
- pretty much a bolt in conversion and allows use of a rag joint or u-joint if required.
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- posted
4 years ago
There are a number of grades, I guess you'd call them, of sucker rods. See
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- posted
4 years ago
You're asking questions that I don't have answers for ... this is for a guy that used to live across the road from me , I have the new column and the old hollow shaft . I assume he knows what he's doing , all I know is what he's asked me to do . The plan is to machine the stub to fit on both ends , TIG weld it in with either Invar42 nickel/iron alloy filler (very low heat expansion) or ER70S2 then machine the weld area smooth . Final step will be to heat the repaired area to around 1500 °F then let it cool slowly in dry sand .
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- posted
4 years ago
Good luck - it's on him to know what he's asking you to do. If it was for you on your truck I'd strongly urge you to do it differently. I'd DEFINITELY do it differently if it was for my own truck - and I'm notoriously "cheap". As a retired mechanic and long-time old car and "hot rod" guy I've seen too many shortcuts like that backfire badly.
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- posted
4 years ago
What do y'all do when a friend/employer asks you to do or make something you think is unsafe?
I can have an unguyed 100' ham antenna tower if I can take it down safely, which I severely doubt. This is why I try to do everything by myself and not owe people favors.
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- posted
4 years ago
After consulting with a good friend - who ran a very successful classic/antique auto restoration shop - I have changed directions . The sucker rod will be used as-is , but will be threaded into the the original hollow shaft . It will be installed using red loctite , then cross pinned to insure it can't come unscrewed . Eliminates all concerns about HAZ problems . The rod is machinable using 5% cobalt HSS lathe bits , though I'll probably use a solid carbide end mill to cut the flats because I have one that has a radiused corner , which will help reduce the potential for a stress crack at the transition from flat to round . I considered milling the flats vertical , but this rod is small enough at .750" that sideways deflection might be a problem .
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- posted
4 years ago
Much better - I'm a bit more comfortable having you go that direction
- cut the seal issue is still bothersome Any way to take the original outer tube of the truck, use a short-ish section and put in a (preferably double) lip seal to run on the hollow shaft???
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- posted
4 years ago
at .750 it sounds like a Mopar column being used. Not a bad choice.
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- posted
4 years ago
It's an aftermarket chrome plated unit .
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- posted
4 years ago
Like an ididit 1300840020 or 1620810020 (for a cuda)