Sucker rod

  As in well drilling applications . Anybody know what this stuff is made of ? It sparks orange with a lot of carbon forks and it's supposed to make good knives . I'd like to use a piece to adapt a new steering column to the original steering gear worm shaft on a 1957 Ford - pickup I think , but that's not important . The original shaft is tubular , the new column needs flats on 2 opposing sides . Cutting the flats on the original tube shaft will leave a very thin wall at the flat . I want to machine a piece of solid stock (the sucker rod) to be a light press fit in the original tube and cut the flats on the solid . I want to TIG weld the extension to the original tube , and I know some alloys don't react well to welding . Wouldn't do to have it come out glass-hard and fracture at the weld . Some preliminary searches say it might be 8620 , which can be welded with some post-weld annealing .
Reply to
Terry Coombs
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I'd get an adapter that fits the old gear on one end and the colun on the end - likely a rag joint. What column are you using? Borgeson makes rag joints for just about any combination. U joints too. The new column sounds like it is what is called a double D. Is the "tubular" part by chance 3/4"? Is the double d 3/4 or 1 inch? Borgeson makes solid couplers from 3/3" smoothe to the double d for $17 to $19 - made for the job and you know it will be safe if installed according to design. 314900 for 3/4 inch DD and 315200 for 1 inch DD

They also make the shafts you need. Get a catalog from Yogi's in Monticello Iowa - 800-373-1937

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Reply to
Clare Snyder

Using a 47 to 59 Chevy truck column? It will be 1 "D - Or a 70-74 Mopar it will be 3/4" DD

Reply to
Clare Snyder

If you are removing the outer housing of the F100 column and cutting off the inner tube where it goes into the bottom "guide tube" I'd be drilling and pinning the insert into the shaft instead of welding it. I'd use a tapered bolt - like the "cotter bolt" used on older bicycle pedals or a triumph motorcycle kick-start instead of welding it - then the alloy isn't critical.. You won't want to use a rag joint or a u-joint on that application because you don't have an adequate bearing in the top of the box to take any side thrust. Also, how are you sealing the top of the box where the inner shaft enters the "guide" tube. There is NO SEAL in there!!! How do you keep water and dirt from getting into the steering box????

Might wan tto see if you can find an early Toyota truck steering box

- pretty much a bolt in conversion and allows use of a rag joint or u-joint if required.

Reply to
Clare Snyder

There are a number of grades, I guess you'd call them, of sucker rods. See

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Reply to
John B.

  You're asking questions that I don't have answers for ... this is for a guy that used to live across the road from me , I have the new column and the old hollow shaft . I assume he knows what he's doing , all I know is what he's asked me to do . The plan is to machine the stub to fit on both ends , TIG weld it in with either Invar42 nickel/iron alloy filler (very low heat expansion)  or ER70S2 then machine the weld area smooth . Final step will be to heat the repaired area to around 1500 °F then let it cool slowly in dry sand .
Reply to
Terry Coombs

Good luck - it's on him to know what he's asking you to do. If it was for you on your truck I'd strongly urge you to do it differently. I'd DEFINITELY do it differently if it was for my own truck - and I'm notoriously "cheap". As a retired mechanic and long-time old car and "hot rod" guy I've seen too many shortcuts like that backfire badly.

Reply to
Clare Snyder

What do y'all do when a friend/employer asks you to do or make something you think is unsafe?

I can have an unguyed 100' ham antenna tower if I can take it down safely, which I severely doubt. This is why I try to do everything by myself and not owe people favors.

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

  After consulting with a good friend - who ran a very successful classic/antique auto restoration shop - I have changed directions . The sucker rod will be used as-is , but will be threaded into the the original hollow shaft . It will be installed using red loctite , then cross pinned to insure it can't come unscrewed . Eliminates all concerns about HAZ problems . The rod is machinable using 5% cobalt HSS lathe bits , though I'll probably use a solid carbide end mill to cut the flats because I have one that has a radiused corner , which will help reduce the potential for a stress crack at the transition from flat to round . I considered milling the flats vertical , but this rod is small enough at .750" that sideways deflection might be a problem .
Reply to
Terry Coombs

Much better - I'm a bit more comfortable having you go that direction

- cut the seal issue is still bothersome Any way to take the original outer tube of the truck, use a short-ish section and put in a (preferably double) lip seal to run on the hollow shaft???

Reply to
Clare Snyder

at .750 it sounds like a Mopar column being used. Not a bad choice.

Reply to
Clare Snyder

  It's an aftermarket chrome plated unit .
Reply to
Terry Coombs

Like an ididit 1300840020 or 1620810020 (for a cuda)

Reply to
Clare Snyder

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