Tire weight alloy

So they stay tight against the rim and don't bend under centrifugal force. at 1000 RPM on a 15 inch rim, a 1 oz weight weighs 13 1/4 lbs, before it hits a bump.

The wheel weights were intended for the .30 cal modern rifles . I have enough pure lead for quite a few balls for the BP guns . But this next run will be for a ball mill .

Well I mean back to reality though, Terry. If you want the best explosive

- or smokeless powder (if that's what you mean), you really should have a f riend or two there with you and all of you should have taken college level chemistry courses. Best explosive such as in heat? Light? Force? Pounds pe r square inch?

I mean, otherwise, you are just like a bunch of intermediate school kids ga thering dog crap and your own urine, etc... and playing with make-believe f ireworks, home made rifles, etc... on a saturday. When I was a kid, I saw s ome dangerous stuff done by kids just for kicks in the neighborhood.

None of that was long-time professional explosive manufacturing complete wi th consultants, physicists, etc... Only that gets you "the best", let's no t fool ourselves,

e - or smokeless powder (if that's what you mean), you really should have a friend or two there with you and all of you should have taken college leve l chemistry courses. Best explosive such as in heat? Light? Force? Pounds per square inch?

gathering dog crap and your own urine, etc... and playing with make-believe fireworks, home made rifles, etc... on a saturday. When I was a kid, I saw some dangerous stuff done by kids just for kicks in the neighborhood.

Now if you don't want to go the college physics/chemistry route. There are always groups like rec.pyrotechnics and alt.engr.explosives

And need to easily flex to the circumference of the rim

I would think ANY bullet in that area of the anatomy would be a pain!!!

Well , I'm not making smokeless powder , and wouldn't try , it's way too dangerous a process without a full lab and the proper facilities

I have a couple of lead counterweights, which are chunks of lead about

1 ton each. And I have a question, how can I split them up into pieces that can fit into medium flat rate boxes. A chainsaw does not work well. i

If it were me, I wouldn't try to cut them. I'd contact boatyards that build sailboats and see if they'll take the whole weight.

Excellent suggestion!

Dare I say it? OK: No Shit!

Gunner Asch on Sat, 07 Feb 2015 17:25:11 -0800 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

Portable band saw?

Either way, wear a good mask to keep the fines out of your lungs, and wash with soap before you touch anything like food, drink - or smokes.

Channel Iron - we used that to cast counterweights for sliding whiteboards.

With the same precautions.

-- pyotr filipivich "With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

How about an air chisel? Or maybe put in your biggest press and "shear" off slices? No "sawdust" those ways.

Regards, Carl Ijames carl.ijames aat deletethis veriz> >

Excellent suggestion!

How about a chisel edged cutter in your big press? What size are they?

Maybe try a bow saw with a regular limbing blade in it. The large and infrequent teeth should allow the pieces to drop pretty quickly.

What causes this up and down of hardness over time?

I finally melted down some wheel weights and made a small ingot for recasting into a hammer. I'm going to try a mold made of sheetrock durabond 90 since I have a sack of the stuff laying around. The trick will be casting the oval hole to fit the wooden handle, and if everything fits after the lead shrinks.

all the steel clips floated to the top with no zinc inclusion problems. I spilled a bit and it's acts like nice clean lead.

I don't know the actual dimensions of your weights so I can't tell how long of a saw blade you would need but a tree saw with a new blade will work pretty well. I have found from cutting up some 4" x 4" lead ballast weights that using a new blade in a "Sven Saw" worked well. I used some water soluble oil mixed pretty thick and pulled on the blade. By pulling instead of pushing the blade it didn't tend to bind in the cut so much. The thick oil mix was so that it would stay on the blade. Don't try to put too much down pressure on the blade or it will stick. The really coarse teeth on the wood saw, and the wide kerf compared to my bandsaw blades, made the cuts go pretty fast. See the link:

It shows a picture of a Sven Saw. Any similar saw will do. Supporting the blade at both ends is best, any saw that does this will work. I just happened to have a Sven Saw. Eric

Usually these are cast around a knobbed pipe handle. Consider smashing a bit of iron pipe oval, and hammering out a bit of flare, that the wood can really be forced into (without breaking the soft alloy).

melt channels though it with a torch to divide it up. Lead melts real fast.