Todays metal related activities

My metal working for today was shopping for a small air conditioner for my machine room and modeling an adjustable feed tube for an assembly cell at work. That was an
excuse to play with my copy of Alibre Expert. Sadly, the .step file imported with 9 inches coming in as 9 mm. I'll be making my first call to support in the 13 months I've licensed the product. Mech Desktop 2009 exported the file I was trying to work with.
I was looking at a 5300 btu energy star a/c with electronic controls when I looked at the cost of owning a 9.7 seer unit with mechanical controls and decided it wasn't worth the extra money. I can fix one with switches and conventional temperature switches. The room isn't very big but I want to be able to play when it gets hot and muggy.
The other benefit is one of those clock work light timers can turn it on in advance of my arival. No idea how an electronic control ac would react to that.
Wes
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Wes wrote:

I have a window air conditioner with a remote control. If the power goes off, you have to turn it back on with the remote, or a button on the control panel.
I have a regular air conditioner in a small cottage I used when I was still able to work. I had a 120 VAC water heater type timer programmed to turn it on an hour before I got home from work to start cooling the bedroom.
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The energy star unit had a remote control. I had a strong suspicion that it would not power up after a power outage.

I guess great minds think alike. ;)
Wes -- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
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Wes wrote:

I have a Frigidaire energy star unit, and it has the feature of remembering the last setting in the event of a power failure. I tested it by unplugging the unit, and when I plugged it back in 20 minutes later, it came back on with all of the same settings.
Jon
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Wes wrote:

Mine was hanging a new-to-me light fixture in my shed/shop , testing and tuning the new saw , and starting repairs on some tiller parts . Fella took 2 pieces of pipe and 2 12" circles of 12 or 10 ga sheet stock and made a couple of spirals to till with . Depending on which side they're on , they'll either make a shallow ditch or pile the dirt up . Neat idea , but he's a worse welder than me ...
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Sounds interesting. I need to put in some sub surface drains. Any pictures ?
Dan
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snipped-for-privacy@krl.org wrote:

Send me your email addy , my reply-to is a good one . Not sure this will do what you want ... but it'll fersure loosen the dirt so it can easily be shoveled out . Basically , cut a disc , slot it from edge to center , and push/pull it into a spiral . Weld to a piece of tube sized for your shaft .
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What else is in your Bat Cave? TV, computer, sound system, fridge, X-Box, etc...?
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Wes, I just use a wall fan (1/3 HP). It works for me. Nice way to spend time today. I finished disconnecting the head from this Bridgeport CNC mill and welded something for removal of a very stubborn SHCS (3/8" hole).
i
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On Sat, 29 May 2010 17:55:41 -0400, Wes

Hi Wes, glad to see that someone else did some actual metal work yesterday. I spent a few hours setting up and rough-turning a piece of 1 1/2" black pipe.
Bought a $39 drill press from the HF store in Paducah a few weeks ago. Took it to the lab and set it up. It has a fairly short column and as a result, limited vertical capacity. The column is 1.89" dia so a piece of 1 1/2" water pipe should do for a new column if it's carefully centered and turned.
Unfortunately I don't have a pipe center for the tailstock so I turned a piece of aluminum about 1/8" smaller than the i.d. of the pipe, and drilled a center hole in it. Then drilled and tapped (1/4x20) four equally spaced holes around the periphery, and four 5/16" matching holes near the end of the pipe. Run cap screws into the holes, set the thing up in the lathe, and adjust the cap screws until the far end was reasonably well centered. The headstock end was held in a 4-jaw.
The first pass took off a lot of the black coating so things are looking good. I'll finish it today and saw off the ends.
Just curiosity: can anyone suggest a different way to hold the tailstock end without buying extra tooling? -- Best -- Terry
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The old way was to pound a piece of wood into the end of the pipe. Bend over the corners of a square of sheetmetal and hammer it into the wood, then mark and punch the center in the metal. Next turn the pipe round and smooth enough to run in a steady rest, and drill a large 60 degree center hole in the sheet metal and wood. Or pound in a steel insert.
The wood plug doesn't interfere with squaring up the end of the pipe or beveling it to run true on the pipe center.
This was the way to turn one or a few cored castings without a fixture such as you made.
My metal project has been repairing the corrugations in crumpled roofing, using pipe for the anvil and a rubber hammer.
jsw
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Mine was to score a FREE CO2 tank for my MIG, and when I go back to Vegas Tuesday, to try to find a rem of SS to go behind my stove at my old supplier. Lots to build and do when I return here in a couple of weeks, tho. I'm ready, and I got steel!
Steve
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Sorry, forgot to add my sig:
Steve
visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com watch for the book
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Awesome. A month ago I got about 6 full size tanks for $10 each. You beat me!
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Turn a Pointed Wedge and put a hole in the wide end that will slide over your live center. Then simply crank the tailstock so the thing is held inside your work piece
=<=l=====l l----
Its very common to find this plug sortofthingy in tool and die makers gear.
Gunner
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