Cut angle and drilled it onto the front and rear lips of the fender. Welded the angle to the frame with 7018. If I total a fender, I just unbolt it and replace. I thought of just welding it, but if there's a problem, I would have to torch it all off. This way, at least it's a bolt on/off thing.
Steve
The fenders have to cover the entire tire, or the cops can make you fix it. Space out the fenders from the body, and do NOT weld the fender on - if you hit something and bend the fender bad enough to make tire contact you need to be able to remove it quickly, so you can get back in motion and fix it at home.
I would make spacers out of square or rectangular tubing at the front and rear leading edges of the fender, welded to the fender, and attach to the frame rails with two 1/4" bolts at each end. The center 'backstay' brace doesn't have to be dead center, you can go around the back side of the Oxygen bottle bracket.
Or go get wider fenders, so they can go flush to the chassis and still cover the tires. You could cut and widen them, but that's a LOT of work between the delicate welding, grinding and filling...
Either way, don't make the bolts too strong, let them be the "Oh, Shit!" failure point - if a tire shreds or throws the tread at speed, I'd rather replace snapped 1/4" bolts and bang out the bent fender a little, rather than have a totally mangled fender that stayed on the trailer - and will have to be bent back before you can get a new tire on and leave.
Make sure you leave an inch or more inside clearance at the back of the tire face to the fender skirts. If you hit a bump on one side the tires move inboard as the spring cycles and it goes up. And if you put the fender too far out with the attaching bolts right there with threads sticking out, you will have a cut tire.
-->--
PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.