Tricks/Bits For Drilling Bathroom Tile?

Put a cross of masking tape where you want the holes and then drill. It helps stops the bit wandering until it's got under the glaze. Alternatively drill a hole through a bit of thin wood or metal and hold that hard against the wall while you use the hole to spot the drill bit.

I think your ideas are pretty good. I've used a hammer drill to drill through tile with the variable speed turned down quite a bit to reduce chipping. Without hammer function you'll probably notice the carbide tip glowing hot. Make a jig out of a block of wood with a hole drilled through it to help keep the bit from wandering.

That is exactly how I do it; (actually, I use a stone in the Dremel). I also have some limited success with drilling through a couple of layers of masking tape to keep the driff from wandering.

Vaughn

Actually those glass/tile bits work beautifully on tile in an ordinary electric hand drill (NOT a hammer drill). No problems positioning or starting them either. Always a good idea to locate holes over a stud and avoid having to use the expansion anchors which depend on the strength of the tile or its bond to the wall for structural integrity. I would also avoid the grout line using glass/tile bits but drill into the face of the tiles instead.

For a picture of the glass/tile bits see

David Merrill

If you have a diamond point for the Dremel, that's the ticket for breaking the glaze, if it's thick. Otherwise carbide works well. That's the best way to get the starting point located where you want it. Carbide masonery bits work will the rest of the way through the tile.

bob g.

Doug White wrote:

Here's a little tip for drilling any wall - tiled or not. Get an old (or new if you like) envelope, open it up a little to make a pouch, and fasten it to the wall with a little bit of masking tape just below where you want the hole. (If you mark the position of the hole on the masking tape it makes it easier to start the hole in the right place, but you need a new bit of tape for each hole.) Then, when you drill the hole, all the mess drops into the envelope. When you remove it, there's no mess to clear up.

First, thatnks to everyone for their suggestions on my drilling task. I bought soem of the spear point glass & tile bits, and sometime this weekend I will start making holes. I haven't decided which/how many of the suggestions I caqn apply all at once, but we'll see.

I've been using a variation of Gary's suggestion for years, but I use a small box-type paper bag. Depending on what & how fast you are drilling, the debris can fly out further than an envelope can catch it. It also gives you a good sized target to tap the debris into that gets stuck in the flutes.

One additional trick is handy if you have to drill into a plaster ceiling. Take a small paper cup, cut it down so that it's short enough to allow the required drilling depth, and then punch it down over the bit. This keeps the debris contained, and avoids dribbling dust & abrasive junk into your drill chuck.

Doug White