Awl --
I'm thinking of a drill that could drill holes in metal doorbucks that are also lined with concrete. Is there perhaps a way to sharpen/grind a masonry bit so that it could also get through 16 ga steel, mebbe some wood?
Iny other ideas on drilling concrete-filled doorbucks?
"Existential Angst" fired this volley in news:4b5ef31d$0$31272$ snipped-for-privacy@cv.net:
Of course you can, but why not just take some care with a common twist drill, and not drill too far past the buck? Use a stop if you're not good at stopping it by hand.
It'll take a lot less work to tweak the edge on a HSS bit after you buzz it a little on concrete, than it will to put the proper edge on a masonry bit, which still won't cut all that well in steel. An as-ground masonry bit will go through wood just fine, although its flutes will load up fast.
LLoyd
You should probably forget this idea. It's easier to pull the ATM out of the wall with a decent 3/4-ton and some chain. Odds are that if you get four blocks away without getting popped, you get to keep all the $20s.
-Frank
I run into this fairly often in commercial buildings. Metal jamb, filled with mortar, brick, steel plate, more brick. What a pain. Since I am getting paid for it I just include the cost of a couple HSS bits in the job for every door and they go in my dull bits pile which sometimes actually get sharpened instead of tossed.
There was a company selling carbide tipped bits for cutting "everything" at some of the home improvement and trade shows about 13-15 years ago. I bought a set and they worked ok on steel in a drill press where I could put a lot of pressure on them, but in a hand drill they were just about as worthless as a masonry bit for drilling steel. I wish I still had that baby drill press. It had a lot less wobble and runout than the floor model I have now.
Was it a Relton Groo-V bit? I recently got one for use in my Milwaukee hammer drill. I was setting 1/2" anchors in rock for some glass shelves. This bit went in easier than the old 3/16" masonry bit I used to mark the locations, even in the hard rock (a lot of the rock was a very soft limestone widely used around here, the hard stuff had a lot of small shell fossils in it). It claims to also be for hard metal, tile, etc. I may try it on some steel and see how it does.
Pete Keillor
Sure, just sharpen it as the "spade drill," it is. Two examples from fairly far apart on the spectrum:
2.25"
These are supposed to be the ducks nuts of drill bits . Never tried them myself but have seen demos where they drill through wood steel and masonry stacked onto of each other.
Interesting.
But, ultimately, these look like better-made, better sharpened masonary bits, with more versatile flutes. And, as per Steve's very nice videos, it seems this masonary geometry is serviceable (if not ideal) for metal/wood.
Artus made some reference to their bit grinding material away, instead of cutting.... hmmmm.....
Mebbe it's time to experiment with the masonary bits that I have, fool around with a green wheel and a drill press. I will fool around, and keep Lloyd's comments in mind, that mebbe the best compromise is sep. twist and masonary drills.
Also, there is all kinds of quality of carbide. I have used brazed carbide lathe tools that were inferior to good HSS -- near useless, in fact. Maybe the Artus achieves it's versatility not by very novel design but by using good tough carbide.
A hardware store here (USA) had the ARTU drills on display several years ago, and I took a pamphlet to read. At the time, they stated that their drills were not to be used for steel, only non-ferrous metals. So, I didn't buy any of them, but if not for the steel exception, I would have.
It's likely that they have changed them, but I wonder if any old stock drills would be distinguishable from the newer drills.
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