Unplanned Upgrade

Jul 07, 2025 Last reply: 1 year ago 26 Replies

Yesterday I was using an air drill on the work bench on my CNC machine room. I stage blanks on that bench and do some minor secondary work there. Mostly de-burring the backside of thru holes. I keep an air drill with a ball valve for speed control at that bench with a counter sink tool for deburring and adding a slight chamfer to the back side of holes.



When I picked up the drill it sounded funny and didn't run right. I turned up the air flow and water came out of the vents.



OH S*IT!



I bled the valve on the wall manifold where the drill was connected and water came out. Not a lot, but not a little. Then I walked up stream to the next down drop, that feeds a machine, and quite a bit more came out of that one. The FRL was also bubbling out the top of the oiler. There was also a fair amount of water in the separator. Fortunately I have not used that machine in over a week (maybe two), so its not likely any water got into the air cylinder on it that activates the tool release. It was the only on machine separator that had water in it, but almost every air manifold on every down pipe drained water when I opened the ball valve I installed on every one of them.



I think I was right on the edge of catastrophe.



When I checked the compressor and dryer there was a bit of water in the air tank. It might have been more than normal, but not much. The separator upstream of my air dryer had some water, but again it seemed like a normal amount or only a little more at most. I drain both of those every day I am in the shop. Sometimes twice.



Then I checked the manual drain on the air dryer, and it also seemed about normal or just a little wetter than normal. Finally I checked the safety check separator. The one directly down stream of the air dryer. It was WET. By that point I wasn't surprised, but it confirmed the air dryer either wasn't working or wasn't keeping up. Usually if I am running every machine, and doing some manual air usage I'll get some water past the air dryer on a humid day, but humidity was only 15% yesterday according to online weather sources. I wasn't running a lot of machines or using a lot of secondary air. It felt hot outside at



110F, but not that humid sweltering hot when the humidity climbs.

I'd already shut everything down, and was just testing off tank pressure. My air dryer is an older style Harbor Freight unit, and its good for maybe 20-25 CFM at 100 PSI. I've been running it over pressure, and if I use an air blast on one of the machines it will get overwhelmed pretty quickly. All of my redundant separators and dryers along with a 7 vertical up to feed are usually enough to protect my machines. Yesterday is the first time I ever had any water in a separator on a machine. Fortunately just the first one on the line it looks like.



Of course I drained all the drop tube drains, and disconnected that one machine from the air system. If I have to use that machine I can use a wrench, but I'd rather not.



Now I was confident as longs the compressor on the dryer isn't burned out I can repair the dryer. I might be able to repair it even if it is, although its not as serviceable as something like a split system. I also have a spare, brand new, still in the box air dryer on the shelf. Never opened. In fact many years ago when I bought it from a closeout company there was a mix up and they wound up sending my four of them. I offered to let them pay freight to return, and they offered me a huge discount on the extra units to just keep them. I sold off two, and kept one as a spare.



I was steeling myself to swapping them out, but instead I walked in the office, sat down at my desk, found a unit capable of drying 75CFM and handles much higher pressure, and ordered it.



Not wanting to sit idle for several days I considered my options. I decided the first thing to do was check out the unit currently installed. I pulled the covers with it powered up. I don't recall noticing an error light (dumb idiot light only) on the front, and the rests inside were not tripped. The fan was running, but the compressor was not, and it was so hot it was painful to touch. Then I looked at the other side and saw the condensing coil was covered in a layer of lint. I blew the lint off, hit the fins with some cleaner and compressed air, and turned the unit on again. The compressor pump started up. I shut it down and called it a night.


Now I am about to walk back out there and power up the air dryer again. If it works I'll run a light load for the next few days until the newer bigger dryer arrives. I'm actually ahead of schedule on customer jobs except for one I need to redesign so I might take a few days off rather than swap in the spare if it doesn't work. I picked up a new Insta360 X5 sport/action camera, so I might go out and shoot some fishing video to promote some of my mold designs.



Oh, yeah. I also ordered a brand new FRL from McMaster for that one with water in it that was leaking out the top of the oiler. I could probably fix it, but I probably won't. It was a cheap FRL anyway. I'll probably just save the filter regulator, and toss the lubricator.



Be back in a minute.......



Okay, all I think I feel putting my hand on the compressor in the dryer is heat building up, and the vibration from the fan. I seem to recall I could feel the pump a little more aggressively doing its thing than that. I also didn't feel any temperature differential in the refrigerant lines. Depending on the refrigerant (modern ones like 410 or its replacement) you may not get the super hot and super cold like you did on the older stuff, but its still easy to tell by feel. I think I have a compressor burnout. I learned to service refrigeration when I was just barely a teen, so I am sure I could source a compressor and repair it, but I don't think its worth it. Probably save the fan motor and cap and take the rest to recycler. (Legal disposal of refrigerant is a pain).



I left it running while I came into to type up that last paragraph. One last check (yes the air compressor is on and the shut off valve is open) now that its been powered up for a few moments to see if its working and...



Nope! Still no temperature differential on the refrigerant lines. Its coming out. I can't complain. After the deal I got on the extra units, and being to sell them off at a substantial profit it was almost free, and its outlasted the original air compressor it was connected to and a few years into the second one.



Its coming out. I don't know if I'll swap in my spare or not. I guess it will depend on how much my OCD pushes me to get jobs done verse going fishing and doing design work.



FYI: I think Harbor Freight discontinued these, because they were unavailable after I bought mine from a third party (shipped from Harbor Freight). Harbor freight has them again, but I bet its a newer revised model. I had to service this one a few times. Little things, but things many people might have struggled with or not been able to take care of. The new one is about twice the price I paid, but after all these years that's no big surprise.


I really should have installed a larger air dryer years ago anyway. I am sure I've been right on the edge of catastrophe many times.

Okay, all I think I feel putting my hand on the compressor in the dryer is heat building up, and the vibration from the fan. I seem to recall I could feel the pump a little more aggressively doing its thing than that. I also didn't feel any temperature differential in the refrigerant lines.

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The fairly inexpensive tool I find most useful for line voltage troubleshooting is a clamp-on ammeter, since it measures through wire insulation and shows if devices are drawing normal, abnormal or no current, which voltage measurement doesn't.

This is a more expensive instrument that gives me almost X-Ray vision:

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It's excellent for revealing poor connections that heat up more than the rest of the circuit and showing what's working and what isn't. I bought it to find heat leaks in the house insulation. In cold weather it shows the studs in the outside walls. I've read that they can reveal animals nesting in the walls.

Going a step further, these plus voltage sensing can detect when something isn't drawing the current it should.

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I have one on my refrigerator, part of a project to make a sine wave inverter turn on when the fridge wants it to and shut off the inverter and its large DC idle current when the fridge turns off.

Its not turning, but it is generating heat. I suspect its a candidate for what is generically called compressor burn out. Usually they trip breakers, but not always.

If I really need to run some air I can probably swap in the other HF unit in an hour or less. Probably take me as long to get it down and unboxed as to swap it in. I'd rather wait until the newer bigger unit arrives, but that might be a week. I do have a decent roll around compressor from CH I've had for over 30 years now. My wife and I bought it at Price Club a long time ago. Its adequate for airing up tires, running an impact, or even painting if you stop once in a while to let it catch back up. I recently wired in a new Pumptrol pressure switch and made a new handle for rolling it around. That was what my heating and bending post was about.)

If I can hold out until the new dryer is here I'll probably sell the new in box old HF dryer on the shelf.

Its not turning, but it is generating heat. I suspect its a candidate for what is generically called compressor burn out. Usually they trip breakers, but not always.

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It may be drawing "locked rotor current" which I would (quickly) measure, due to either mechanical binding or failure in the start circuit; relay, capacitor or contacts. On my old Maytag it's around 40A, if the start switch doesn't close. I shut it off, kick the motor until the switch clicks, then it starts normally.

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A properly rated time delay breaker will pass the brief starting current and open for continuous locked rotor current.

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A junior engineer was asking me (lab manager) to order unusual quantities of oscilloscope camera film so I asked him what he was doing. He was trying to determine how long a fuse took to blow at various overload currents, and was confused because of the wide variance between individual fuses, since he couldn't test the same fuse twice. Electrical engineers learn ideal component behavior, not the messy practical details like we hands-on chemists had to. I showed him graphs like that and had no more film requests.

I bought a few inexpensive thermal breakers for car audio that testing showed would open at their rating one time, then the contacts apparently burned and caused the breaker to heat up and trip at lower and lower currents. The AC + DC-rated Carlings I put in my solar battery system open consistently and repeatedly within the specification.

Before the crackdown on Freon I was trained to build industrial refrigeration including brazing tubing, but I didn't have much practical experience before recovery equipment became mandatory.

I learned to service refrigeration from a mail order course my dad took. He learned to fix refrigeration because we lived far from town, and if we didn't fix it ourselves it wouldn't get fixed. My dad had a buddy named Paul Drudge who ran a refrigeration business out of Gila Bend (55 miles away) who would come out, and he taught my dad a lot, but when Paul retired we were on our own. Nobody wanted to drive 68 miles (from Yuma) to service a country grocery store.

My dad was doing all of our refrigeration work when I started reading the course and taking the quizzes book by book. I might have been 12. I think I was 13 or 14 the first time I got down the manifold set and diagnosed the refrigeration unit for or meat display case, and topped it off by myself when my dad was in town on a supply/parts run.

Just so you know if you have a unit that takes R22 or now R410A and a service company says it could be fixed and topped off, but they can't get those refrigerants anymore they are lying. It is not illegal for them to service those units. The price has skyrocketed for the older refrigerants, but it is not illegal to use the existing stock. R12 is about gone, but R22 and definitely R410A stockpiles are still available. They just want to sell you a new system. Yes, new systems might technically be more efficient, but the reality is they also don't work as well. Computer controlled variable speed sounds great on paper, but give me me a simple expansion valve, some motors, and an old Honeywell mercury tilt switch round thermostat any day.

It might be ten grand for a refrigeration company to install a new system, that could be properly repaired for less than one. Oh, and they typically seal up those old units and sell them off to companies in Mexico who repair and install them.

I am NOT a refrigeration tech, but I do have a decent modern analog manifold set, a couple vacuum pumps, and a recovery pump. It is possible to get refrigerant, and "theoretically" if I were to replace a burned out compressor on a 4 or 5 ton AC unit I would buy a recovery tank and pump out the system rather than venting to atmosphere like some DIYers might do. Then I would hand off the tank to a buddy of mine who has the right licenses and let him increase his inventory of tanks by one. "Theoretically," the cost of the tank would just be classed among my consumable costs if I were to do that, "theoretically."

FYI, If you were to, "theoretically," do that yourself remember that modern refrigerants generate acids in a compressor burnout environment, and they need to be disposed of. Not reused. Yes, there are acid neutralizers, but I wouldn't trust them 100% with a new pump. I would use the acid neutralizer oil additive anyway in case I couldn't completely flush the rest of the system, but I would not pump that "burnout" refrigerant back into my repaired system.

My dad had a buddy named Paul Drudge who ran a refrigeration business out of Gila Bend (55 miles away) who would come out, and he taught my dad a lot, but when Paul retired we were on our own. Nobody wanted to drive 68 miles (from Yuma) to service a country grocery store.

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Were you somewhere around Mohawk, Dateland or Kofa?

Paul also got us started in the satellite TV business. Basically my first exposure to communication contracting work. We used to drive to Phoenix, and pick up systems from Echosphere. They had a store in Phoenix, and manufactured dishes in a facility out west of Buckeye.

A couple miles north of Dateland.

Figured you might take out your compass and draw a couple circles. LOL.

Paul also got us started in the satellite TV business. Basically my first exposure to communication contracting work. We used to drive to Phoenix, and pick up systems from Echosphere. They had a store in Phoenix, and manufactured dishes in a facility out west of Buckeye.

My dad had a buddy named Paul Drudge who ran a refrigeration business out of Gila Bend (55 miles away) who would come out, and he taught my dad a lot, but when Paul retired we were on our own. Nobody wanted to drive 68 miles (from Yuma) to service a country grocery store.

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Were you somewhere around Mohawk, Dateland or Kofa?

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"Boeing B-50A Superfortress, #46-020, crashed on March 23, 1950, north of the small desert towns of Hyder and Dateland in southwestern Arizona"

They could have been trying to make the landing field at Dateland. Just north of the freeway (I8) is that big training base runway I talked about in another post. If its the same plane they were two miles north of the runway when they hit. I wonder if their names are on the monument north of the rail road tracks about 9-10 miles from there.

There is a small pyramid monument in the desert north of the Gila River, and North of the "north line" railroad tracks that has a plaque with the names of soldiers who died training in that area during WWII.

Desert training including aircraft, tank corp, and infantry were conducted in that area. Near the air field just a few hundred feet from Ave 64E going north from I8 is a place we all called "the bunker." It was a wood, concrete and dirt structure used for sighting in the machine guns on airplanes while tied down to the pad in front of the opening.

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I thought I recalled more names than that on the monument. I'll have to run out there and look again sometime.

I was about ready to go ahead and swap in my spare unit when I got an email notification the new 75CFM dryer will be arriving tomorrow.

I wonder if it would be worth my while to plumb in the backup unit inside the machine room for redundancy? It would only be drying already dried air anyway.

Or I could make a rolling service cart for my plasma cutter and put it on the bottom of the cart with the baby plasma on top.

I rarely use the plasma cutter. I usually use one of the OA torches instead. I usually only use the plasma on aluminum when I saw won't do.

After they medically retired Dad from working at Hill AFB in '76 he opened an AC/R repair business . A large part of his business was servicing farm equipment . Often sitting in a field several miles from the nearest highway and frequently a hundred miles from town . There's a LOT of dry wheat acreage in western Box Elder County Utahaha . And you ain't farmin' 4,000 acres on an open tractor in that climate .

When I was still running The Security Consultant I got a referral from the manufacturer to service a burglar alarm system for a country grocery store in Wenden Arizona. It is 128 miles from where my office was at the time. I called them and explained I'd have to charge them mileage. I just couldn't take 2/3 of a day to drive up and back to see them and do what they needed for the cost of a service call. I also explained that if I didn't have whatever they needed I might need to make two trips. I'd be as prepared as I could be, but no promises. Their response was they didn't care as long as I was actually willing to show up and fix it. I fixed it. I wound up doing a handful of various service calls over the years for them. Often if I needed to go to Phoenix for something I'd take 95 to I10 instead of I8 t0 85 and just charge them for the miles off the freeway. They were happy to have somebody who would come out and fix things. I have mixed feelings about it, but I'm kinda glad I never told them I could have fixed almost anything in the store.

I wonder if it would be worth my while to plumb in the backup unit inside the machine room for redundancy? It would only be drying already dried air anyway. Bob La Londe

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You could plumb it in with disconnect fittings such as unions and flex hose and make a straight pipe replacement from the piece cut out to quickly swap in if you need the dryer elsewhere. I did that with a tempering tank in the water heater's feed line and swapped when a weld on the tank began to leak.

It's a Monel (copper+nickel) electric water heater tank with mild steel angle welded on as supports, contamination which apparently saved it from recycling at the scrapyard. Some day I may grind or etch out the rusty steel and TIG the holes with nickel or Nickels.

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Dad didn't have your self-restraint . If he saw a problem he could fix he'd let the client know and offer to do the repair . And save the client a charge for another repairman . He had more business than he could handle sometimes .

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