Fixing to weld up a driveshaft for a little Ford Ranger. Have access to a mig welder and AC/DC stick welder.
What would be the best choice and what type welding rod should I use, if I use the stick welder?
Little concerned over the make up of welding the steel tubing to "I guess" cast iron ends.
"Mike" wrote: (clip) Little concerned over the make up of welding the steel tubing to "I guess" cast iron ends. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I don't think they would make drive shaft parts out of cast iron. If they are, the rod would be nickel, which will join CI to CI, or CI to steel. Find out more before you proceed.
The driveshaft end will be maleable steel. I have seen nickle rod used with a stick welder. I've also seen them MIGed, with IIRC stainless steel wire. You need to stitch it first - 190 then 90 degree - and keep a close eye on it to be sure it stays 100% straight. It is not fun "shrinking" a driveshaft to get it straight.
Most driveshafts are made with forged steel ends and steel tubes. MIG is the standard of the industry for driveshaft welding.
Mike:
Starting somewhere around 1968, I've welded quite a number of driveshafts, both as replacements and in some extremely odd combinations of engine/chassis/rear end...
All were welded using 6013 or similar rod and an AC/DC stick box. I prefer DC because it feels smoother and is a bit easier to control, but AC works just fine as well. As some have already indicated, the ends are steel, not cast iron (cast iron would never take the beating that you can dish out on the universal joints, and it's really tough to machine it with fine enough circlip grooves...
I've never had a weld failure, but a few of my drivelines have met their match with such mishaps as when a 4x4 dropped off a rock and high centered on it, bending it quite severely...
You've got to stich weld the end on the tube, or risk having it on crooked (which you really can't "balance out" with any real success. If you're in the sticks and just need a slow way back home, it doesn't matter nearly as much, but once back on the highway and up to 60, a misaligned driveline will shake you to pieces.
Also, make sure the joints are phased properly. This means the two ends must match up so the universals are in alignment. If they are rotated out of phase before you weld, the driveline will put extra stress on the slip yoke and cause vibration and/or premature universal joint failure.
Thanks
--Rick
Mike wrote:
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