What kind of wood do I need for this metal/wood project?

I am putting an electric motor on my Kayak. I need to build a spidery bracket to mount the motor on. I want to use a 2x6 or so for a mount. I am putting a 28# thrust Minn-Kota on a 12.5" Cobra. I will use it for fishing. I am looking forward to getting it done and playing with it. It should move out pretty good!

Which kind of wood would be the best for use where it will probably get wet a lot? Redwood? Teak? Mohogany? Treated wood? Fir? I would probably need about 2x6x8, so could pick it up at an exotic wood place, or just common stuff at HD.

TIA

Steve

Reply to
SteveB
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Reply to
Steve Lusardi

Reply to
Grant Erwin

Teak is the mariners wood of choice. I would think that mahogany would be next, then redwood.

Lane

Reply to
lane

A quick google search found this web site:

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It shows that teak has greater resistance to rot & decay than white oak or anything else. Greenhart is listed as the best in all categories, but then this is just a kayak, not a schooner.

Lane

Reply to
lane

FWIW, there is hardly a wood in existence that wouldn't work Ok in this application. White oak, teak, mahogany and so on are preferred woods for marine construction because they're rot-resistant and/or they have some other useful property (white oak steam-bends really well, which is why it's used for ribs, for example). None of that applies in a kayak.

I'd just pick something that looks nice and use that. Don't buy oak at Home Depot or an ordinary lumber yard, because that will be red oak, which is not a great choice, because it wicks water. Give it a couple of coats of exterior varnish and you're done.

Ed Huntress

Reply to
Ed Huntress

As seldom as it will get wet, I would not worry about it too much, pick what looks good with your kayak. If it was going to be underwater, or exposed to the weather 365 days a year, that would be different. Teak is a traditional wood for boats, at least above the waterline. I would not use treated wood, it would probably drip and stain.

Richard

SteveB wrote:

Reply to
Richard Ferguson

Cypress should be good. The old cooling towers at the plant were once all cypress for the wetted parts, because it was cheap and resisted rot better than the rest.

Pete Keillor

Reply to
Peter T. Keillor III

Hardwoods would be heavy. I suggest Yellow Cedar. In some areas they call it Alaska pine. It is a true cedar wood and has equivalent resistance to rot as red cedar. It looks like pine and works like pine but the smell is distinctive. Randy

Reply to
Randy Zimmerman

Cedar for light weight - strip laminated for strength. Alternate - birch plywood (aircraft grade) laminated to desired thickness. I doubt you would need a 2 inch thickness. 3/4 to 1 inch. Anything more would be overkill. Finish with spar varnish and a couple of pads (AL or plastic where the motor clamps on. Regards. Ken.

Reply to
Ken Davey

Yellow cedar is actually a cyprus.

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wood. For an example of what it looks like and what can be done with it (shameless non commercial self-promotion) go to
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Ken.

Reply to
Ken Davey

Yellow cedar is actually a cyprus.

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wood. For an example of what it looks like and what can be done with it (shameless non commercial self-promotion) go to
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Ken.

Reply to
Ken Davey

No brainer. Teak. You won't find a 2 x 6 -- but 1x6 is just fine (actually, 3/4"). Double it up. If you glue the two halves together, be sure to use a waterproof glue such as resorcinol. You can get hunks like that at most marine suppliers, but also good wood shops. Not expensive. Also, bolt through for extra strength. My (5hp outboard) motor mount has a teak hunk on it. About 8 years old now -- If I remember, I give it a slap of poly varnish at the beginning of the season. It will probably last forever with lots of neglect and abuse.

Boris

Reply to
Boris Beizer

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