1. Home
  2. ⏣ General Metalworking
  3. what paint to use on a mill

what paint to use on a mill

My younger brother built a Seig x3 mill drill into a very very nice CNC mill. I have to say, even though his is my brother, he did one hell of a job on this thing. Its a real tour de force of all of his skills, including learning how to run it.

Now for the problem. He is using a synthetic coolant and its made the Seig hammer tone green paint get soft and bubble up. He has begun to tear down the mill, in order to add an automatic way oilier (of his own design and build) and would like to strip and repaint the mill. The question is what is the best paint to use????? If it matters, I can find out the specifics on the coolant, like brand etc....

Anyone have any super tough coolant proof paint suggestions...

thanks in advance...

bob in phx.

Reply to
Bob in Phx
Loading thread data ...

One of the rustoleum epoxy rattle can paints will probably do the job, and since the parts are relatively small you can bake it on in your oven nicely. I've done that on a few projects and the paint has held up well.

Now for the important part - where are the pictures and details of this build?

Reply to
Pete C.

If at all possible, get it powder coated. It is by far cheaper and more durable than any paint. If that does not work use either epoxy based or two part polyurethane. I did not believe the cheaper bit, but it is less than

1/2 price of painting if you cost the paint, primer, solvents, cleaners, sandpaper, masking tape and of course , your time. Steve

Reply to
Steve Lusardi

Ill ask him to put up the pictures this week and we will see what you think!!!!!

Reply to
Bob in Phx

Remove old paint, metal prep, Dupont Colar Epoxy Primer and Imron topcoat. Tough as you can get out of cans but also expensive and toxic so appropriate procedures should be adheared to (supplied air system when using/mixing).

Reply to
jimbobmitchell

Reply to
Bob in Phx

Remove old paint, metal prep, Dupont Colar Epoxy Primer and Imron topcoat. Tough as you can get out of cans but also expensive and toxic so appropriate procedures should be adheared to (supplied air system when using/mixing).

I don't think Colar is available any more. Imron still is, but it's a different formulation than the older "really kill you if you breathe it" Imron - I used the newer formulation on my drill press when I restored it (photo in hobby section of my web, wbnoble.com) and while nice, it's not as tough as the old stuff.

** Posted from
formatting link
**
Reply to
William Noble

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.