Where to buy machine screw assortment?

I will keep that in mind.

Reply to
John Doe
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That's not the answer to the question I asked above. Please read it again. If you answer the question I asked, it will make it much easier for everyone to help you, and will make the answers we give more relevant to your problem.

We're not here to criticise you unfairly; we're just trying to understand the problem better.

Best wishes,

Chris

Reply to
Christopher Tidy

I keep a basket full of recycled used paper towel portions (from non-chemical/biological uses). They can be used for cleaning bolts too. Fold the paper towel into several layers, hold it on the bolt with your fingers, and use a cordless drill to slowly spin it off of the bolt. To get rid of plastic chips on plastic screws, just move them around against the carpet.

Have fun.

Reply to
John Doe

A few notes about machine screws and where to buy them:

Don't buy ANYTHING that has a "slot-head".

Put a decent chamfer on the clearance bolt-holes. Some screws, in fact most screws, have a root radius, which is why you place a washer under the head.

Try a proper supplier, like Fastenal or somebody's "Nut & Bolt" Company locally, or any mill supply house. Ask for "Grade 8" in whatever style you need. Be prepared to spend more money than at Lowes, but depending on what and where and how many you buy, the best Holo-chrome's might not be a lot more bucks. Personally, I find that Allen-head bolts are less likely to break than cap screws. Not sure you can buy "machine screws" in Grade 8, but purchased from a good supplier they will be at least Grade 5.

Twice (at least) in previous replies you mentioned using stainless bolts rather than the zinc-plated machine screws used at present. You should note they S/S are NOT stronger that good steel bolts. In fact, may be quite a bit softer if they are not also Grade 8 or better. "Stainless" is a quality of the material, and not directly related to strength or holding/breaking capacity.

I was taught to use Grade 5 or better bolts in the automotive world.

Since I'm using more and more ACQ treated lumber, the need for non-corroding hardware has led me to stainless research. McMaster has half a dozen stainless alloys and their differences astounded me. From their comparison chart + delving into the individuals:

17-4 PH Stainless Steel, 140,000 psi Combines the high-strength of alloy with corrosion resistance of stainless steel. 18-8 Stainless Steel, 70,000 psi Offers excellent corrosion resistance; it may be mildly magnetic. Alloy 20 Stainless Steel, 80,000 psi Also known as Carpenter 20, it's nonmagnetic and especially resistant to stress corrosion. 300 Stainless Steel, 80,000 psi Meet more stringent specifications such as military specifications. All are passivated (a nitric acid treatment that creates a passive film to protect the stainless steel from oxidation and corrosion). 316 Stainless Steel, 80,000 psi Offers even better corrosion than 18-8 stainless steel. It contains molybdenum, which increases resistance to chlorides and sulfates. It may be mildly magnetic. 450 Stainless Steel, 170,000 psi Offers more corrosion resistance than alloy steel.

Unrated hardware, Class 2A, has a 60,000 psi strength. Grade 5 with a zinc plating is double the strength at 120,000 psi.

If you want strong, buy HoloKrome screws. I believe J&L is in the UK.

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Try a company like Fastenall for good screws.

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Reply to
John Doe

Time to get a life, Christopher.

Reply to
John Doe

Hope you find it before it's too late. PLONK

Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

Well, it was you who lowered the tone of the discussion. I asked a reasonable question, which you refused to answer.

I'm inclined to think that you are putting screws into untapped holes, but for some reason refuse to admit it. It's a strange attitude if you actually need a solution to your problem.

Best wishes,

Chris

Reply to
Christopher Tidy

If the breaking torque is being reached before the head comes into contact, *I*, at least, have to assume that you are trying to form threads by screwing the screw into an unthreaded hole, which is not what it was made for, and it *will* break.

I've never seen you *deny* that you were doing this. Clearly deny that, and we will consider other things.

And 6-32 are *very* weak screws, and if made of the typical zinc-plated butter steel which is used for the blister-pack stuff sold by most home user hardware stores, they certainly will not survive being used to *form* threads.

If you want to form threads -- either get the screws made for the purpose (you're not likely to find them in Lowes), or get a thread-forming tap. Note that when you are *forming* threads, you need a larger tap hole than when you are using a normal thread cutting tap to make the threads. If you try to use the tap drill for a thread cutting tap, you will even break a thread forming tap as it clogs up with too much metal.

I think that I did wind up tossing you into the killfile at the time, but I changed newsreaders and am starting over. You are getting very close to going into it again.

Yes -- and then measure the torque needed to break it off. Or screw it in to normal torque and pull up on the plate held down with the screw and measure the breaking point. Screwing it into an untapped hole is putting stress on it in the wrong places, and it is of course going to fail.

Well ... my first answer to you told you where *I* would go to buy the good screws -- before it became apparent that you will probably similarly break good screws by similarly mis-using them.

When you have this many people asking you to clarify your question, it must mean something other than that you are communicating clearly.

DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

This is what I've been trying to establish. It only requires a yes or no answer, but he's unwilling to give one. I don't think we can help him any further unless he provides a proper, unambiguous answer.

Best wishes,

Chris

Reply to
Christopher Tidy

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