Mounting something in shop floor

I did exactly this with my metal bender from HF and finding a place in an all ready much to small and cramped shop. It almopst needs to be mounted in ther biggest area for room for the stock to move, and what I did was use a pice of 1/2 or 5/8 inch plate I had and milled a hard bevel on the edges, so it would not be a stumbling block or a catch all with dirt and chips etc. Then drilled 6 holes of 1/2" diameter in it around the edges. I also drilled a series of other holes that I tapped with various sizes of threads 5/16"-18, 3/8, 1/2 etc etc........I then used the plate to drill through the previously drilled 1/2 inch holes to mark where I need to drill for masonary anchors.. I used the wedge type studs which are 1/2" diam studs. I made a longer post (had bench mount bender) and added a plate on the bottom of the benders post from 5/16" plate wh9ch was made approximaately 2 inches wider and longer than the post itself. I drilled this for 3/8" sized bolts, and then marked the plate on the floor, and drilled and tapped holes to match the plate on the bottom of the benders post. I have the plate on the floor bolted permanently in place and its not a trip hazzard, and when I need to use the bender I just place it on the plate and use 4 bolts to fasten it to thre drilled and tapped holes in the floor plate. I use the other h9loes for attaching various other objects, like a bracket for a winch to drag things into the shop, as well as a vehicle that does not run, or use it to bolt varous steel pieces to to form or bend heavier items with my porta power. IIRC the floor plate is 14" x 17" becasue thats what I had handy and it is 5/8" thick, but I am sure 1/4 or 3/8 would be sufficient for the bender. Once bolted down its solid as a rock and pulling against it I seriously doubt I would exceed the sheer strength of 6 ...1/2" studs
============================================== Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked! "The original frugal ponder" ~~~~ } ~~~~~~ } ~~~~~~~ }

Ted Edwards I believe wrote up something about his floor post mountings. Might try google groups...
GWE
CAMCOMPCO wrote:

MSC sells epoxy-in anchors with machine-screw threads, in zinc plated or stainless steel. One could epoxy these into the floor, and bolt the metal bender down when needed. MSC offers bolt sizes from 1/4 to 1".
The 1/2" zinc-plated carbon steel anchor is MSC 84690254.
The trick will be getting these straight. I would make some kind of fixture to ensure that a waxed bolt into the anchor is held perpendicular to the floor while the epoxy cures.
Joe Gwinn

Observe that the forces on a bender footing are torsional around a vertical axis, not so much in the other 5 degrees of freedom. This means you are better off with a bigger footprint baseplate with lighter anchors on the outside. I would propose something like a 2 ft square steel baseplate 1/4 in thick, held down by Tapcons on the corners, with drilled/tapped holes of diameter matching the bender foot holes, and likewise diameter stubby hold- down bolts cut to the length to just reach the bottom of the plate.
Think of it as impedance-matching the material strength of concrete vs steel.

FWIW I agree with Joe's plan here...My bender is mounted with 4 - 1/2" studs epoxied into the floor in about a 8 1/2" square (the stock hole pattern of the bender) and it is wayyy strong enough. I do realize that this is opposite the way you want to do it -- Male instead of Female -- But it's the same difference :) And the fixture to hold them straight is a great plan - A piece of 1/4" plywood to match the base of your bender should do....
I used T88 epoxy from System Three ---
Your basement floor should be about 4" thick....I think I went about 3" deep on my studs, and I cleaned out the holes real good before the epoxy.

I don't think so. Consider this thought experiment: a 1/4" rod, 4' long, anchored vertically in concrete, with a 2' horizontal handle attached at the top. Pull horizontally on the handle's *end*, perpendicular to it. How does it deform? Mostly by bending in a vertical plane and not as much around its axis.
I'm sure that a mechanical engineer could tell us just how much in each "degree", but I'm not up to that.
Bob

It seems to me that sleeves right through the floor are a lot more useful than a surface mounted plate. Either would probably work for a bender, but if you have a sleeve into the floor, you can mount all kinds of neat stuff in it. Of course, a sleeve through the floor is a lot more work if the floor already exists. Ideally, it is attached to (i.e. rebar) a lump of concrete under the floor considerably larger than the sleeve. The idea is to make the sleeve as immobile as the building.
Think about things you want to pound on, lever against (a flat plate would only be good for torisional), etc. Maybe you want two or three of them...
Steve
CAMCOMPCO wrote:

if your floor is thick enough , core drill a six inch hole through , deepen it too about 18 inches , place a piece oh 4x4 square tubing in hole , fill the outside to flush and the inside to 12 inches deep , make a cover and voila you have a permanent female socket that will handle anything you want to bend

I borrow a bender occasionally and use it outdoors where there is room. The temporary base for it is a big cross of planks or steel beams, which I stand on while pushing the handle. If that isn't enough I clamp a crowbar to the square column right below the top flange and pull between it and the handle. No rigid mount required.
jw