Mounting something in shop floor

Hi Gang, My guess that many of you are in the same situation I am in...namely, competing with the wife for shop space. While luckier than some, I am a bit too cramped to anchor a metal bender in the middle of my shop floor. I had an idea, if I could insert flush mounted "female" sleeves, I could insert bolts into them when I needed my bender. My question to you folks is this, has anyone done this? Is there a right way and a wrong way. This is going to be in my concrete basement floor (not quite sure how thick modern floors are, had the house built in

2000). Any how, I'm not too darn price sensitive given that I will be drilling into my floor and don't want to "re-do" this leaving holes all over the place (besides the fact that the boss will kick my butt :-)

Again, thanks in advance

Reply to
CAMCOMPCO
Loading thread data ...

============================================== Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked! "The original frugal ponder" ~~~~ } ~~~~~~ } ~~~~~~~ }

Reply to
Roy

Ted Edwards I believe wrote up something about his floor post mountings. Might try google groups...

GWE

CAMCOMPCO wrote:

Reply to
Grant Erwin

MSC sells epoxy-in anchors with machine-screw threads, in zinc plated or stainless steel. One could epoxy these into the floor, and bolt the metal bender down when needed. MSC offers bolt sizes from 1/4 to 1".

The 1/2" zinc-plated carbon steel anchor is MSC 84690254.

The trick will be getting these straight. I would make some kind of fixture to ensure that a waxed bolt into the anchor is held perpendicular to the floor while the epoxy cures.

Joe Gwinn

Reply to
Joseph Gwinn

Observe that the forces on a bender footing are torsional around a vertical axis, not so much in the other 5 degrees of freedom. This means you are better off with a bigger footprint baseplate with lighter anchors on the outside. I would propose something like a 2 ft square steel baseplate 1/4 in thick, held down by Tapcons on the corners, with drilled/tapped holes of diameter matching the bender foot holes, and likewise diameter stubby hold- down bolts cut to the length to just reach the bottom of the plate.

Think of it as impedance-matching the material strength of concrete vs steel.

Reply to
Richard J Kinch

FWIW I agree with Joe's plan here...My bender is mounted with 4 - 1/2" studs epoxied into the floor in about a 8 1/2" square (the stock hole pattern of the bender) and it is wayyy strong enough. I do realize that this is opposite the way you want to do it -- Male instead of Female -- But it's the same difference :) And the fixture to hold them straight is a great plan - A piece of 1/4" plywood to match the base of your bender should do....

I used T88 epoxy from System Three ---

formatting link

Your basement floor should be about 4" thick....I think I went about 3" deep on my studs, and I cleaned out the holes real good before the epoxy.

Reply to
Jeff Sellers

I don't think so. Consider this thought experiment: a 1/4" rod, 4' long, anchored vertically in concrete, with a 2' horizontal handle attached at the top. Pull horizontally on the handle's *end*, perpendicular to it. How does it deform? Mostly by bending in a vertical plane and not as much around its axis.

I'm sure that a mechanical engineer could tell us just how much in each "degree", but I'm not up to that.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Engelhardt

It seems to me that sleeves right through the floor are a lot more useful than a surface mounted plate. Either would probably work for a bender, but if you have a sleeve into the floor, you can mount all kinds of neat stuff in it. Of course, a sleeve through the floor is a lot more work if the floor already exists. Ideally, it is attached to (i.e. rebar) a lump of concrete under the floor considerably larger than the sleeve. The idea is to make the sleeve as immobile as the building.

Think about things you want to pound on, lever against (a flat plate would only be good for torisional), etc. Maybe you want two or three of them...

Steve

CAMCOMPCO wrote:

Reply to
Steve Smith

if your floor is thick enough , core drill a six inch hole through , deepen it too about 18 inches , place a piece oh 4x4 square tubing in hole , fill the outside to flush and the inside to 12 inches deep , make a cover and voila you have a permanent female socket that will handle anything you want to bend

Reply to
williamhenry

I borrow a bender occasionally and use it outdoors where there is room. The temporary base for it is a big cross of planks or steel beams, which I stand on while pushing the handle. If that isn't enough I clamp a crowbar to the square column right below the top flange and pull between it and the handle. No rigid mount required.

jw

Reply to
jim.wilkins

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.