My guess that many of you are in the same situation I am in...namely,
competing with the wife for shop space. While luckier than some, I am
a bit too cramped to anchor a metal bender in the middle of my shop
floor. I had an idea, if I could insert flush mounted "female"
sleeves, I could insert bolts into them when I needed my bender. My
question to you folks is this, has anyone done this? Is there a right
way and a wrong way. This is going to be in my concrete basement floor
(not quite sure how thick modern floors are, had the house built in
2000). Any how, I'm not too darn price sensitive given that I will be
drilling into my floor and don't want to "re-do" this leaving holes all
over the place (besides the fact that the boss will kick my butt :-)
Again, thanks in advance
I did exactly this with my metal bender from HF and finding a place in
an all ready much to small and cramped shop. It almopst needs to be
mounted in ther biggest area for room for the stock to move, and what
I did was use a pice of 1/2 or 5/8 inch plate I had and milled a hard
bevel on the edges, so it would not be a stumbling block or a catch
all with dirt and chips etc. Then drilled 6 holes of 1/2" diameter in
it around the edges. I also drilled a series of other holes that I
tapped with various sizes of threads 5/16"-18, 3/8, 1/2 etc
etc........I then used the plate to drill through the previously
drilled 1/2 inch holes to mark where I need to drill for masonary
anchors.. I used the wedge type studs which are 1/2" diam studs. I
made a longer post (had bench mount bender) and added a plate on the
bottom of the benders post from 5/16" plate wh9ch was made
approximaately 2 inches wider and longer than the post itself. I
drilled this for 3/8" sized bolts, and then marked the plate on the
floor, and drilled and tapped holes to match the plate on the bottom
of the benders post. I have the plate on the floor bolted permanently
in place and its not a trip hazzard, and when I need to use the bender
I just place it on the plate and use 4 bolts to fasten it to thre
drilled and tapped holes in the floor plate. I use the other h9loes
for attaching various other objects, like a bracket for a winch to
drag things into the shop, as well as a vehicle that does not run, or
use it to bolt varous steel pieces to to form or bend heavier items
with my porta power. IIRC the floor plate is 14" x 17" becasue thats
what I had handy and it is 5/8" thick, but I am sure 1/4 or 3/8 would
be sufficient for the bender. Once bolted down its solid as a rock and
pulling against it I seriously doubt I would exceed the sheer strength
of 6 ...1/2" studs
Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked!
"The original frugal ponder"
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MSC sells epoxy-in anchors with machine-screw threads, in zinc plated or
stainless steel. One could epoxy these into the floor, and bolt the
metal bender down when needed. MSC offers bolt sizes from 1/4 to 1".
The 1/2" zinc-plated carbon steel anchor is MSC 84690254.
The trick will be getting these straight. I would make some kind of
fixture to ensure that a waxed bolt into the anchor is held
perpendicular to the floor while the epoxy cures.
Observe that the forces on a bender footing are torsional around a vertical
axis, not so much in the other 5 degrees of freedom. This means you are
better off with a bigger footprint baseplate with lighter anchors on the
outside. I would propose something like a 2 ft square steel baseplate 1/4
in thick, held down by Tapcons on the corners, with drilled/tapped holes of
diameter matching the bender foot holes, and likewise diameter stubby hold-
down bolts cut to the length to just reach the bottom of the plate.
Think of it as impedance-matching the material strength of concrete vs
FWIW I agree with Joe's plan here...My bender is mounted with 4 - 1/2"
studs epoxied into the floor in about a 8 1/2" square (the stock hole
pattern of the bender) and it is wayyy strong enough. I do realize that
this is opposite the way you want to do it -- Male instead of Female -- But
it's the same difference :) And the fixture to hold them straight is a
great plan - A piece of 1/4" plywood to match the base of your bender should
I used T88 epoxy from System Three ---
Your basement floor should be about 4" thick....I think I went about 3" deep
on my studs, and I cleaned out the holes real good before the epoxy.
I don't think so. Consider this thought experiment: a 1/4" rod, 4'
long, anchored vertically in concrete, with a 2' horizontal handle
attached at the top. Pull horizontally on the handle's *end*,
perpendicular to it. How does it deform? Mostly by bending in a
vertical plane and not as much around its axis.
I'm sure that a mechanical engineer could tell us just how much in each
"degree", but I'm not up to that.
It seems to me that sleeves right through the floor are a lot more
useful than a surface mounted plate. Either would probably work for a
bender, but if you have a sleeve into the floor, you can mount all kinds
of neat stuff in it. Of course, a sleeve through the floor is a lot more
work if the floor already exists. Ideally, it is attached to (i.e.
rebar) a lump of concrete under the floor considerably larger than the
sleeve. The idea is to make the sleeve as immobile as the building.
Think about things you want to pound on, lever against (a flat plate
would only be good for torisional), etc. Maybe you want two or three of
if your floor is thick enough , core drill a six inch hole through , deepen
it too about 18
inches , place a piece oh 4x4 square tubing in hole , fill the outside to
flush and the inside to 12 inches deep , make a cover and voila you have a
permanent female socket that will handle anything you want to bend
I borrow a bender occasionally and use it outdoors where there is room.
The temporary base for it is a big cross of planks or steel beams,
which I stand on while pushing the handle. If that isn't enough I clamp
a crowbar to the square column right below the top flange and pull
between it and the handle. No rigid mount required.