Container floor anchors

Install threaded inserts into the floor at the appropriate places. Use through holes for easy clearing if the holes will not cause a problem with bugs or airflow.

If you use lag bolts make sure they are not made in china. When I bolted down the machines in my simi trailer I twisted off a couple and they where a bitch to cut off under the machines or lifting them over the broken bolts.

SW

Please reread my post. I do not want to use lags.

Steve

Threaded inserts, tee nuts(woodworking type) or make your own. Chunks of flat plate with tapped holes, inletted into and screwed to the floor. Just depends on how big you want your hold-down bolts to be. You can get tee-nuts with holes in the flanges for nails or screws so they don't have to be underneath the wood to hold. If it's just light woodworking machinery, it isn't going to dance around a lot, you could maybe get by with 1/4-20s. Can get tee nuts and threated inserts at Ace.

Stan

McFeelys has Tee-nuts up to 1/2 - 13

--Well it's not ideal but if you go to a store that sells accessories for trailers you can get those slotted widgets (that are screwed to wood decks) that accept quick-connect rings. Then attach a load binder or two and you've got a real rigid attachment point. Comes apart fast too; there's just the problem of the load binder getting in the way of what you're doing but that shouldn't be too bad if you position 'em towards the back of the tool, yes?

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If the flooring is Oak of sufficient thickness, properly sized lag bolts would be the simple solution. I don't see the need for anything elaborate. The table saw & the router table don't transfer significant (shear) loads to the floor. The bender should have a base plate large enough for the correct number of bolts so it spreads the load out. If you still need something more you can use threaded inserts, my local hardware has them up to 1/2" ( takes a 1/2" 13 tpi bolt) on the shelf.

Andrew

E-Track? On a floor???

Stainless too, nice.

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Instead of routing the inset holes on the floor, you could use a Forstner bit. Common lockset sizes like 2.125 or 2.375 might be good; see [1]. You could use large-diameter filler covers (above the thinner hole threaded for your hold-down bolts) like those used in floor box covers, see [2]. You could buy large-diameter set-screws, or maybe make them by cutting sections from a foot of

"The Kid" made a trailer deck that has two rows of Etrack that he liberated from my semi trailer. Very handy. But, its open below. I think it would be a dirt and swarf magent for a permanent floor.

Karl

Threaded inserts, tee nuts(woodworking type) or make your own. Chunks of flat plate with tapped holes, inletted into and screwed to the floor. Just depends on how big you want your hold-down bolts to be. You can get tee-nuts with holes in the flanges for nails or screws so they don't have to be underneath the wood to hold. If it's just light woodworking machinery, it isn't going to dance around a lot, you could maybe get by with 1/4-20s. Can get tee nuts and threated inserts at Ace.

Stan

Where I live is on top of sand dunes, essentially. I blow and vacuum out my container weekly. My concern is keeping them clean enough to use, and not letting them get sand in there where they can get moist and rust. How would you use a T nut when you can't get behind the board?

Steve

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I think if I use a lag, the

Sounds like you might. Would work for at least 2-3 times.

Threaded inserts, tee nuts(woodworking type) or make your own. Chunks of flat plate with tapped holes, inletted into and screwed to the floor. Just depends on how big you want your hold-down bolts to be. You can get tee-nuts with holes in the flanges for nails or screws so they don't have to be underneath the wood to hold. If it's just light woodworking machinery, it isn't going to dance around a lot, you could maybe get by with 1/4-20s. Can get tee nuts and threated inserts at Ace.

Stan

ZAP! Just had an idea. Maybe some of those D ring things with plates that they sell at truck places. Use with four mini binders for some equipment, but I would have to have something sturdier for the bender.

Steve

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Yes, a plausible alternative except for bender. But then, I might just put that outside anchored in concrete so I can put some torque on it.

Steve

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My shop bender is about three feet high with an extendable bender arm that goes out to about five feet. The base is no more than 12" square. I know by looking at it that I could overpower it. Your idea about threaded inserts is good, it's just that I would have a hard time keeping them clean, as I get a lot of sand in my shop. Kinda wanted to rout out a big enough area under the attachment so that there would be a constant airspace, and sand/moisture buildup could not accelerate electrolysis.

I kinda think I already know what I'm going to do, just looking for something prefab that I can slap down and go.

Steve

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Now, that's a thought.

Steve

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I have a set of those , they range in size from 1/4" to 1.5" . Any bigger than that and I'd have it in a drill press - and I prefer to use even the small ones that way . Tried a couple of bigger bits freehand once ... *ONCE* . They have a very nasty tendency to walk unless you're perfectly square with the surface being drilled , and even then it can be iffy . Use a hole saw and chisel the bottom flat by hand . It's much safer that way , and you end up with a nearly-perfectly-centered pilot hole for whatever threaded insert you end up using .

Threaded inserts such as the ones I pointed out on McMaster are easy to install, and don't make an appreciable difference in the floor surface, something that is important if you roll stuff around or need a flat floor for layout.