You get sand in your shop anyway, so having the holes open below shouldn't be an issue. Use the threaded inserts with through holes, i.e. drill the appropriate hole size for the insert all the way through the floor then thread in the insert. Sand and dirt will fall through leaving the insert clean.
"Steve B" fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.infowest.com:
Hey, Steve.
You need to watch out for one thing, and I mean this.
1) those floors aren't oak, they're usually a tropical mahogany or mahogany-like wood. By themselves, their sawdusts are somewhat poisonous. 2) almost all containers that originated in China (and most do, sorry), have floor wood that has been saturation-treated with Chlordane. It's a "hard" poison that will not deteriorate in the soil.So don't breathe the sawdust! (but DO scratch it into the soil around the foundation of your house... G)
LLoyd
On the plate outside the container, it states that it has chlordane in it. I never thought about scattering the sawdust around.
I rented a country house in the 70's in southern Louisiana. We had fire ants, and I mean hills the size of washtubs. My veterinarian landlord brought me a Mason jar of white granules. He said to use about four grains per ant hill, and that it was chlordane, something that was outlawed. That stuff worked very well. It was a yearly ritual with the new queens flying in, but it did help a lot. I'll remember to keep the sawdust. Thanks. I would have never thought of it, even though I did see it on the container label.
Steve
visit my blog at
--Nothing an air gun couldn't fix.. ;-)
Chlordane (unless Im thinking of something else) is also known to be a bit hard on cats. Ive seen few cats around storage yards with cargo containers, while next door, many cats.
Gunner
Add alignment pins to the base that fit in pipe sleeves that you place in the floor. The lags will keep it anchored and the pins will handle the torque of the bender. I have a buddy that has a Hossfeld lagged to the floor of his barn it works ok with the cro molly tubing for race car frames.
Andrew
I have two twenty footers. I have bought a lot of corrugated steel, and am going to put a roof over it about a foot up, just for shade. I had thought about a flowing water system for cooling. It does get hot in there, but I wonder about the rust. I am going to paint the same as the iron ore sand dunes, and paint cactuses and bushes on them to have them blend into the countryside. I would use some old barnwood, as we get a lot around here, but that would just be a nest for the scorpions and spiders. I live way out, and driving up, having them blend in would look nice. Ah, another day, another project. I hope to make some big money soon on my book, and then I can call someone and have all this done while I'm away on a cruise or in Kauai.
Steve
visit my blog at
"Gunner Asch" wrote
I'd have to back my ATV trailer over to the house and load up my fat assed cat and drive her out there. She'd never walk that far on her own. I do catch a lot of pack rats in my sheds, many of them quite large. I use rat traps. I use 5 gal. buckets for the mice, and strangely, I get very few of either of them in the containers. Maybe because of the chlordane.
Steve
visit my blog at
From a thread in 2009
"Only if you are feline. Chlordane tended to make cats go goofy. While it didnt usually..usually kill them...it tended to make them badly fugazzi...
Excellent idea, Pete. For bug-free operation, countersink the holes
1/4" and fill with cap head mach screws when not in service. Nice and flush.-- We're all here because we're not all there.
I did the occasional chlordane treatments and had very few external pests around my old house.
Wow, powerful stuff when used that way.
Oh, for inserts, Drill, countersink, and hex 'em in. Try this style:
-- We're all here because we're not all there.
Like I said, they make them without the usual lugs sticking out and with holes in the flange for screws or nails, usually three in a circular pattern. Those keep the tee nut from rotating or pulling out. Have gotten them from Ace and Lowe's. Can be had in stainless. I usually use a drill press and a Forstner bit to recess them flush. Kind of hard to do it that way on a floor, though...
Inserts work, too, may be more work cranking them into place, though. You can get steel or brass, brass wouldn't rust. Use beeswax for lube when cranking them in. If you've got sand problems, drill the holes deep and get some plastic caps for the unused holes, they make them.
Stan
'Coupla thoughts:
- you probably don't need hold downs on the router & saw - the forces on them are pretty small
- you only need 2 hold downs on the brake - to keep the front from lifting
- you do NOT want to use bolts of any kind - you do not want to be screwing & unscrewing bolts every time you use it. You want to move it into place, lock it down with MINIMAL motion & get to using it.
I would do something like this: have a plate in the floor with a keyhole opening (a circle with a smaller tail). On your brake you have a bolt whose head fits through the keyhole circle & whose shank fits the tail. You move the brake over the floor plate, lower the bolt through the keyhole, slide it slightly into the tail, & tighten the bolt. NOT by running a nut on its threads, but with a pull toggle clamp, like this:
That's how I would do it, Bob
I wonder if it has the same effect on Usenet trolls like hawkie and cliffie?
If you can round the two of them up, and bring em to me, Id test that and a host of other products on them.
No deposit..no return.
Of course by the time Ive used them up..they will rate their very own Hazardous Waste bunker
They could still be used for proucts that claim they do no testing on animals, though. Of course, they may already be good at applying makeup and lipstick. ;-)
Oh indeed....Indeed!!!
Gunner
I am the Sword of my Family and the Shield of my Nation. If sent, I will crush everything you have built, burn everything you love, and kill every one of you. (Hebrew quote)
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