i have a need to mark wire with numbers in the 300s. i normally use
grainger part 3TP40 as an example.
They only go up to 149. I don't really want to buy a special printer
or hand write. Anyone know of a pre printed solution for marking wires
with higher numbers?
FWIW, I'd like to keep the same numbers as the existing machine.
If I'm building a new panel I usually use laser printed self
laminating labels. I use excel to print the sheets.
I'm building a panel for a friend right now. He supplied heat shrink
labels. I think he also uses excel to generate the numbers.
For work on existing panels, where it's difficult to predict what
numbers will be needed, I use either snap-on markers (bottom of
McMaster p.1956) or hand mark self laminating labels or blank vinyl
cloth labels (the type you're using).
or grainger part 3TP40 as an example.
I normally use the number wire markers that come in a little carrier of
10 rolls of 0-9 tape. Since you apply each individual number wrap you
can do any number you want. I believe they are a Brady product, possibly
other brands have the same thing as well.
Ned, how well do these hold up to oil? The inside of a CNC machine
ends up with a coat over time. Gives the dirt something to stick to.
I've wiped down as much as I can but I'm cutting existing wires
and hooking up to Opto22 and Galil boards.
Anyone with a spreadsheet and laser printer can mass-produce printed
numbers, and after you snip the bits apart with scissors, a length
of clear tape can hold each label to its assigned wire. There is
also a kind of clear heatshrink tubing available.
I'd expect Avery to have a complete wire-label solution, actually.
Haven't seen it yet, though.
Just an addendum to this conversation -
All the solutions mentioned thus far have the label wrapped around the
wire. This does not meet Bellcore standards (don't ask me to look up
the exact one) because the label is not readable from any direction
when the cable is connected. You must use a label that leaves a flag
sticking out from the wire. Brady makes them, for sure (and I'm not
looking that up, either).
A few years back, I got to supervise a couple of electricians while
they relabeled a whole AT&T DSLAM installation because it failed for
I'd be interested to know more about that. My little CNC mill has the
little clip on numbered plastic collars to label the wires, typically 2
next to each other at each wire end. Some weren't visible due to
rotation but were easily rotated so they could be read. Not much point
them facing the back of the control box as you couldn't get your head
in there and would have needed a mirror to read them if the case. How
big is the flag as in my case some wires are close so could that prevent
flag rotation or prevent moved flags from being rotated into view. The
control box for my mill is currently 24" x 24" x 12" deep so maybe your
requirements are for different types of installations?.
Google Brady. They make a 100 buck thermal printer that works well. It is
out so the 130 dollar one may be all you find. I've use the Brady ID Pro for
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
>> or grainger part 3TP40 as an example.
Thanks Pete, you sold me. I just placed an order.
I had a really good day on the mill project. Put in ten hours no
interruptions. Got the wire way to the power supply cabinet done, got
Estop buttons working with a drop out for no third phase, Got a whole
bunch of unused cables removed, Pulled USB and monitor power cables
into the operator panel, figured how I'm going to mount the moniter
mouse and keyboard and designed the computer swing out support. I just
got the DC power cabinet all finish wired and debugged yesterday.
Tonight, I need to record notes on wires and cables into the computer
spreadsheet. Tomorrow, I'll take all the servos apart and figure how
to mount encoders. Then get them ordered.
>> >> or grainger part 3TP40 as an example.
I'll need a ton 'o help here. I don't plan to touch this till late
next year at the soonest. I've got a poor heating system in the barn
shop (torpedo heater) so I'm only working on the machine three or four
more weeks this year. I hope to have hot chips on the floor before
>> >> >> or grainger part 3TP40 as an example.
Yea, my shop is starting to get chilly. Fortunately I have a new (used)
HVAC system for it leftover from replacing my house system with a new
heat pump earlier this year. I just need to get the air handler up into
the shop attic, some ducts connected and a little wiring done and I'll
have real heat in the shop this winter. In the spring I'll get the A/C
side if things connected and charged for summer.