It depends on what you need. If it's a common replacement part, then
they are likely to have them in stock and the prices are reasonable.
It's it's a bit more unusual and they have to make one from scratch at
today's hourly wage, the prices can be astronomical. The good news is
that they will often sell you dimensioned drawings if you want to make
your own. They do the best they can to to help folks keep the older
machines in service, and I have to applaud them for that.
Isn't the service group for Clausing an umbrella-type group that does
Kalamazoo saws, Clausing, and, iirc, BP?? mebbe a cupla others?
These muthafuckas wanted $900 for an effing cutoff switch for the Kal (that
you coulda made from a piece of 1/8x1/2 alum and a HD toggle light switch),
and $1300 for just part of the mechanical variable speed control.....
Even the rep on the phone said, Goddammmmmm........
Mebbe Ig is independently wealthy.....
Wear in the delrin bushing. IIRC, the fit between the bushing and the shaft of
pulley flange should be 0.001".
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
OK, I have taken the whole thing apart, which was very easy.
Something does not yet make sense to me.
Here are some things I found out. I made a large number of photos and
will post them after some thinking.
1. The fit between the delrin bushing and the epoxied shaft on the
inner pulley, is good. The epoxy on the inner half of the pulley is
black and not green.
2. The epoxy on said shaft is in good shape.
3. The keyway between the inner and outer pulley is all beaten
up. this keyway is on the epoxied part of the inner half.
4. The 3/8" shaft, on which the hydraulics is mounted, is held in a
special bushing that is held inside the outer pulley by a retaining
ring. The ring was broken (but still there) and a small part of the
rim (part of the pulley) holding said ring, is broken off as well.
That shaft, due to not being held properly, was wobbling inside the
pulley and that partly explains why the hydraulics was wobbing as
More disconcerting is that the inner hald of the pulley wobbled as
well. Yet, it was held tightly on the motor shaft. It also is cast
iron and coule not be bent and it does not look bent. Furthermore, the
motor's shaft does not look bent either. It makes no sense to me. I am
The damage to both halves (worn keyway on the epoxied part, damaged
rim to hold the base for 3/8" shaft for hydraulics), seems to be
repairable with a little bit of nickel welding and another lathe
(I can probably use my friend's lathe, hopefully). Of course, welding
on the pulley with epoxy means that epoxy would need to be redone.
I will not start any repairs, until I get a complete understanding of
what is going on, what is not working and what is causing what.
Suspect motor mounted on resilient vibration damping mounts allowing the
wobble of the items hung way out on the shaft to cause wobble of the
Just an educated guess, I haven't been in one of those lathes before.
That would be very helpful, I read though this and was responding earler when my
crashed for the second time today, second time in about 3 years.
That epoxy is teflon impregnated. It is green. At least that is what I've been
Take that with a grain of salt though.
The above link shows the green coating damaged showing the black coming though.
Of course the instructions that come with the delrin af bushing calls it epoxy.
Searching around I found this link.
Go down a bit, teflon powder to put in epoxy. I used moglice to repair mine.
interested in trying that if I did it again.
I also might have just ran a new bushing a bit longer on the original coating.
Is the cut keyway battered or is part of the delrin bushing missing the keyway
Do you have telescoping gages to measure the ID of motor side pulley and compare
it to the
I did some of my machining on my lathe.
Threaded rod and a soft plug, stuck inside the spindle tube.
Big drill powering spindle, held by my uncle.
Best to study this thing carefully before doing anything permanent.
Yes. My 5914 had a very bad wobble, which turned out to be due to the
bottom VS pulley assembly coming loose on the motor shaft and battering
itself. The root cause was a setscrew that had become loose, but
neglect by the prior owner or owners had allowed the problem to worsen.
The whole story is in "Clausing 5914 VariDrive Wobble" and children
posted to RCM in January 2008.
My issue is similar in some ways.
First of all, the thin 3/8" shaft that held the hydraulic system,
became loose and vibrated. I think that this accounted for most of the
Second, the inside lower half pulley is not a perfect fit for the
motor shaft. So, the motor shaft is not bent, the pulley half is
perfect, and yet they are not aligned.
My feeling on this matter is that vibration of the lower pulley is not
nearly as big of an issue as vibration of the hydraulic shaft.
I am tempted to paint the motor shaft, which may eliminate this
clearance, and then replace the 3/8" shaft that holds hydraulics, and
call it a success. I am reading your thread now.
These pulleys (assuming that they are like the ones on my
Bridgeport) have a Delrin sleeve separating the sliding pulley from the
shaft of the motor. These wear out. There is also Delrin around the
key, and if this wears out too, you start machining away the side of the
keyway in the motor shaft. (Hmm ... does yours have one of the
Vari-speed sheaves on the motor, or is it between an idler and another?)
I had to get a replacement rotor for my Bridgeport's motor. The rebuild
kits are relatively inexpensive, when compared with the price of new
motors or shafts -- but some shops believe in "run them until they die"
and never sink the time into replacing the sleeves and bonding the new
ones into place properly.
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