Wobble in Clausing variable speed drive

A little update on this. I believe that I have the "full picture".

  1. The motor shaft is completely straight (no surprise) The fit between the lower inner pulley hub and the motor shaft is not good and, therefore, the said hub does not want to sit straight.

This accounts only for a smaller part of vibration.

  1. The hydraulic stuff sits on a long 3/8" shaft, which is held in the lower outer pulley half by a bushing and retaining ring. Retaining ring sits in a circle in the sald pulley half. A part of the cast iron rim on this half is gone and the retaining ring was broken. The bushing had a lot of wear near the retaining ring and the whole thing vibrated a lot. I believe that eventually vibration would destroy everything.

I ordered the retaining ring. I asked Clausing how much it is to replace the shaft with bushing. If the shaft/bushing is affordable, I will just buy it, if not, I can make the replacement on the lathe/mill, it is not complicated.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus11495
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Did you ever post pictures?

Wes

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Wes

I thin that I never did, but I have them, here

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Reply to
Ignoramus11495

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That looks like the snap ring groove is partialy busted out. That would cause grief. Some idjit tried to move the sheaves when the drive system wasn't running.

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That isn't pretty. It looks like the key cut into the left side of your motor side pulley. Is that so?

What is the key way condition of?

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Wes

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Wes

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Yes, it is partially busted, I think from just bad design and fatigue. I think that the lathe worked for a few years with the groove so busted.

I think that I can live with this ring busted. I think that the real cause of thin end shaft vibration was that 1) it wore near the snap ring 2) the snap ring cracked.

I think that when I get the new shaft and bushing assembly, which turned out to be not too expensive, and install it with a good snap ring, it should be better.

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Not great condition, but, I think, fixing it is is painful due to epoxy lining. If epoxy was not an issue, I would just weld it with nickel and machine.

I know that you did redo epoxy lining, maybe I should look to your example. I do not have a drill big enough to spin the spindle. But maybe I can do something else.

Did you buy it from DeVitt machinery?

i

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Reply to
Ignoramus11495

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I hope you can get by w/o fixing that.

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Yes. I'm still waiting to see how durable it is. I used a coating thinner than recommended. If you do decide at some point to use moglice, I'd call dewitt and get some recomendations on product and cleaners to make for the best results and adhesion. I just bought the two part coating and since they charged OVER 3O bucks for a 'hazmat' fee, I wasn't interested in buying cleaning agents as a second orderafter I realized those existed. I used brakleen instead.

I've recieved a lot of ORM-D stuff. Seldom is there a up charge. I have a rather bad feeling for Dewitt's shipping practices.

If you have to weld it up, then you might want to try an idea I had, which was to have the shaft portion of the pulley polished and hard chromed. Living near Chigago, there has to be someone that can plate it.

My other thought is given the new bushing looks like it is Delrin AF vs some other plastic used years ago, is the coating even necessary?

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The coefficent of friction relative to Delrin AF on steel is .19 which is better than a brass bushing iirc. I didn't look up the latter but I'm thinking it is .3 or so.

As you can guess, I'm not sure I made the best choices when rebuilding my drive. Oh well, it works so far. If I could go back, I'd just bore new bushings to fit and run it and see. Sometimes I get a bit anal on repairs. ( But not on shop cleaning :) )

Wes

-- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

Reply to
Wes

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