do "they" make?

[1] I have seen fluteless taps, but do "they" make fluteless dies too?
[2] Do "they" make ordinary fluted (and fluteless too, why not) dies that
are taper at one side, and bottoming at the other (so you can start and cut
a thread easily, and by reversing the die in the holder you can tap up close
to a corner eg the head of a machine screw)?
[3] Silver solder/brazing resist, paint it on, solder/braze, then wash it
off, and the silver solder/braze will not wet the portion where the resist
was? Even if flux gets on it?
[4] Small long sub-diameter slow-helix good steel drill bits with
replaceable screw-in full diameter carbide tips?
[5] Hand hacksaws where the blade is screwed in place to a
wider-than-the-blade-width holder which does not twist in the frame, and
which does not rely on the blade tension and two miniscule barely flat-ish
parts to prevent the blade from twisting?
Reply to
Peter Fairbrother
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Thread rolling heads
Most do, usually tapered side is the side with the letters/numbers on.
Motorcycle frame makers used to use treacle, the dark industrial black stuff for doing this so the braze was restricted to the tube and lug area. a lot of early lugs were wrap rounds.
Sorry ??
Buy a genuine cast alloy Lennox frame, These are 302% better than any others I have seen or used. Can be air dropped on Bosnia and not break the blade.
-- Regards,
John Stevenson Nottingham, England.
Visit the new Model Engineering adverts page at:-
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Reply to
John Stevenson
Over here in Canada we call it "White Out", the type correction fluid. Works like a charm and does exactly what you want it to do. Mike in BC
Reply to
mcgray
[snip, thanks]
At ~ 4mm diameter long solid carbide drills are hugely expensive, perhaps £15 for a 15x diameter long one. Short solid carbide drills cost about £1 (or 20p if you get them cheap). But the only bit that wears is the tip, and the bit that usually snaps is the shaft.
So make the long shaft from a decent tool steel which won't snap (tool steel as in screwdriver, not as in lathe cutting tool) and put a replaceable solid carbide tip on the end.
btw, if anyone knows of a ~ 1/8", 3.5 mm or so long carbide or carbide tipped drill going "cheep" ... I need to drill and ream a 55 mm deep 4 mm dia hole in Inconel X-750. Bought a long solid carbide 4 mm reamer at a show for a quid :), but I need a suitable drill.
Reply to
Peter Fairbrother
Could you perhaps grind a masonry drill bit to do a one off ?
Reply to
Neil Barnes
Spark erode?
Reply to
Charles
Wickes sell what they call a Universal drill bit. It's carbide tipped, like a masonry bit, but with a zero rake cutting grind rather than the extremely negative rake of masonry bits. The flutes are deeper as well. They are claimed to be good for wood, steel and concrete.
You may have to experiment with the tip grind and you will have to use a lot of pressure to avoid work hardening, but you may do surprisingly well with these bits.
Mark Rand RTFM
Reply to
Mark Rand

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