bandsaw blades

On Sun, 18 Apr 2004 15:41:17 -0700, Roger Hull wrote (in message ):

Now I'm really fustrated. I made up a jig to hold the ends together and (Practicing on scrap) tried the spot welder. Miserable failure, didn't even stick together when I released the clamp. Then I tried brazing (Oxy-Acc, 000 tip, fluxed rod). That looked a lot better but broke in the saw when I tried a gentle curve (Which is the whole idea behind this circus). But it didn't break where I'd brazed, but right next to that. Maybe I should have quenched? Anyway, I sure need help here guys.

Many thanks.

Roger in Vegas

I posted photos a while back of my bandsaw blade TIG welding jig.

I can't seem to find them in the dropbox.

Basically mine is a clamping bar that holds the 2 ends of the blade in alignment using 2 small vise-grip c-clamps. The blade teeth are aligned against a long bar on the edge of the jig to make sure the joint is straight.

I then TIG weld the blade using 0.024" stainless filler, and about 5-10 amps.

After welding temper the weld with a propane or butane torch until it turns blue, then unclamp, grind off the weld and temper to blue again.

On Sun, 18 Apr 2004 18:03:56 -0700, Ernie Leimkuhler wrote (in message ):

Cool. Except I don't have a TIG. I have Oxy-Ace, MIG, AC-DC buzz box, and an el cheapo Harbor Freight 110v spot welder. I made a jig by milling a slot in bar stock the width of the blade (1/4) and three times as deep, drilled a hole in the center, and use two pieces of 1/4 keystock with C-clamps to hold the blade with the ends over the hole. Should the blade be cut straight across or at an angle? And I'm assuming its a butt joint rather than a lap joint.

Then you need to silver solder the ends together. It is best done with a scarfed joint, where the ends are bevelled in opposite directions so the actual joint has more surface area.

A sneaky way to get this perfect, is to twist your blade ends so they are both pointing the same direction, one on top of the other. Flip one end so the teeth are on opposite sides, and clamp them with vise grips. Now grind both ends at the same time. No matter what you do, as long as the blades ends are in line with eachother, when the ends are unclamped you should have a perfect joint.

You want a high temp silver solder. I like the Harris silver solders, but that is not necessary. I use Stay-silv flux for silver soldering. Butt your blade ends. Flux the whole joint including between the pieces. You want a really tight seam. Silver solder does not jump gaps.

Cut a small chip of solder, dip it in flux, and place it on top of the seam. Heat the seam from below very gently and slowly until the solder wicks into the joint. Allow it to cool slowly, then grind or sand off the sides and temper to a blue color with the torch for about 2 inches on each side of the joint.

Heat the