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Has anyone here taken an english/metric HLV top slide apart?

I'm in the process of starting to sort out my recently acquired Hardinge HLV-BK. This weekend's contribution was to have been taking the top slide apart, cleaning the rust off the rusty bits and inspecting the several ball bearings, plain bearings and gears involved.

At the moment I seem to have hit an impasse...

The HLV-BK as produced by the representatives of the Brothers Hardinge, at their establishment at Feltham in Middlesex, England. has dials that read in both Real units and French units. This is accomplished by the use of a 125 tooth and 127 tooth internal gear meshing against the same idler gear. This was quite original in 1950 and might have been slightly original when Hardinge got another patent for it in 1976.

Unfortunately the bi-lingual mechanism is not represented in any of the drawings that are available these days. It looks to me as if There has been a very tightly fitted addition to the original Imperial parts. Before I plug up the various holes in the part and try to bash it apart with grease, a hammer and hydraulic pressure,

HAS ANYBODY HERE SUCCESSFULLY TAKEN THESE BITS APART, AND IF SO, HOW?

The reason That I _must_ take this bit apart is that buried in it is the first ball bearing in the lathe, that I've found, that feels as if it's full of sand.

The imperial drawings of the bits are here :-

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Courtesy of Hugh Sparks.

The pictures of what I have are here :-

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of large images)

If you haven't taken one apart, neither set of pictures will be of much help :-(

I _will_ be producing a pictorial documentation of the strip-down and rebuilding to supplement Hugh's web site. Purely because there seems to be no other useful documentation out there in the Interweb..

also posting to uk.rec.models.engineering and rec.crafts.metalworking, and the model eng mailing list.

Mark Rand RTFM

Reply to
Mark Rand
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Mark, I can't give you any help from direct experience but have you looked here

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US3952693 - "Machine tool dial assembly" ?

Quite a few drawings there that may be of some help.

Peter

Reply to
Peter Neill

That's the 1976 reprise of the 1950 idea. They changed internal spur gears to external spur gears and called it new art...

Mark Rand RTFM

Reply to
Mark Rand

Problem sorted. I made up a tightly fitting cover plate/bung that went onto the large end of the bit at the top of:-

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tapped the three clearance holes in the bit 2BA since that was a good match to the 4.1mm (No 20?) holes, drilled the cover plate to match and screwed it on. The original #6-40 screws that hold the bit on in normal life got screwed into the back of their holes to block them up.

I then made a closely fitting plunger for the hole in the small end of the part. I squirted some way oil down the hole, filled the rest up with grease, vented all of the air out, rested it in the vice and hit the plunger sharply with a 2lb soft hammer.

The bit at the end moved measurably and I was able to carefully lever it the rest of the way off. Having got it all apart, I can tap the holes that I made all the way through and next time use the screws to jack it apart.

Needless to say, after being subjected to 400psi Vactra No 2, the pair of shielded ball bearings that felt rough, now feel smooth!

Mark Rand RTFM

Reply to
Mark Rand

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