Hi,
I keep hearing about peck drilling in the lathe using D bits and I just wondered what is the best orientation for the D bit to get the swarf to clear ? Is it better with the flat facing up or down or sideways ?
Cheers,
Hi,
I keep hearing about peck drilling in the lathe using D bits and I just wondered what is the best orientation for the D bit to get the swarf to clear ? Is it better with the flat facing up or down or sideways ?
Cheers,
I was just reading about D-bits in a lathe turning book from about
1900. It states "This is a true cutting tool, and will not only enlarge holes, but will initiate and bore holes through solid metal. There is hardly a limit to the capabilty of this most perfect tool. It will bore to almost any diameter and length with extreme accuracy, provided it is sufficiently lubricated." The one they show has the shank reduced to half the bore diameter after the initial D section, and has a slightly raised lip on the front cutting face to give top rake - presumably this wouldn't be required if you were just finishing an existing hole with it. There is no mention of peck drilling, so I assume the waisted shank gives all the swarf clearance required.Sadly they don't answer the question you raise, but if these D-bits are so good, why can't I buy a set ? Or can I ? They seem easy enough to make on demand if you have a complete set of silver steel in imperial and metric sizes, and you are prepared to reduce the shank, heat treat, and then grind the tip. You would think you should be able to buy a set like twist drills.
Steve
They are slow! The combination drill bit and reamer is much more efficient. But D-bits still are used for deep hole drilling, esp. gun drilling (we call them "cannon drill" (Kanonenbohrer)). For one (few) offs, conical bores or bores with odd shapes, they are unbeatable for the HSM.
Nick
Nick,
I have spotted that Reeves list D-bits in imperial sizes as 'milling tools', though there are no pictures.
Steve
Boo, Quite a bit( pun not intended) is in Ian Bradley's The Grinding Machine. It is doubtful whether this MAP book is available now but it describes making D bits from silver steel and the 'D' left after grinding is half the diameter plud 5 thous. This is tempered to suit the material to be bored. The cutting edge s are 10 degrees and 10 degrees.
Surprisingly, this format is still adopted for boring Northumbrian BagPipes in such as Lignum and Blackwood. Very long and very narrow bores are done this way. My experiences are there fore in wood but removing the wood bored is fairly hot on respective pecks and I knock the swarf(?) off the top of the flat with a thumbnail. It sticks and trying to keep things cool is a nightmare! As the boring gets deeper the heat gets greater from the friction.
Some time back you raised the question of cheap tool and cutter grinders and whether these could be got in the UK. Bradley, in the same book goes into making his own tooling for grinding D bits and quite a few fancier applications. Maybe, you could get a copy of this from E-Bay or a secondhand outlet.
I hope, however, that the foregoing is of some use.
Cheers
Norm
Ah, yes. but these are really for milling. To be precise, for engraving. They do have a relief on the radius, but not the D-bit. Also, the D is exactly 50% and not a tad more like with the real D-bit.
Here is a link with the geometry (text is in German, but the picture is quite self-explaining).
Nick
Now for a peck of Thanks. That's the drill or has the World changed to 'tec all and say nowt?
Norman Atkinson
Sounds like a better plan anyway.
Thanks,
Thanks
But well hidden under Various -> Always Available -> Page 4, imperial sizes 1/16 inch to 1/2 inch. No picture unfortunately.
Steve
On or around 8 Jan 2007 15:04:37 -0800, "Cheshire Steve" enlightened us thusly:
that's a point, they probably LH dies. I need an LH M8x1.25... which I couldn't find in J&L's catalog, somewhat to my surprise.
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