question regarding Stuart 10V

Hi Lee the 10v was the first slide valve engine that I made, and I did not have a clue how it worked or went togeter. It is the steam pressure in the valve chest that holds the valve against the block.

Mike Cole

In message , snipped-for-privacy@juno.com writes

To be pedantic, the pressure of inlet steam in the valve chest is offset by lower pressure exhaust steam. Thus the net pressure that holds the slide in place pulsates with each stroke. This is one of the reasons why some argue that the extra complexity of balanced slide valves is worthwhile.

NB: in the balanced slide a hollow piston takes exhaust steam through the top of the slide and out through the roof of the steam chest.

Did you find it a good choice of first model?

Is it still your first choice?

Steve

Hi ... I'll chip in on this also, because it was also my first model.

this I am looking at mine as it has sat alongside my various monitors over the year on my desk. I got hours of enjoyment from building it, learned a lot in the process, (especially when I built the reversing gear for it as my 'second model', and it continues to give me satisfaction today even after all these years, (coming up for 40). Would I recommend it to someone starting out ... yes.. without a second thought or a moments hesitation.

If nothing else it makes a good paperweight ;-)

Regards IanB

Can I put an oppoite point of view?

It all depends on how much engineering skill you have before you start out. The 10V kit comes as a pile of castings, forgings and little bits of metal - just enough to make the engine. Many of these bits need a lot of machining operations, some quite complex and involving tricky holding methods. If you have enough knowledge and experience that you can do all these without making any mistakes then its a neat model. If like me however you are learning from scratch on the job then you will inevitably make mistakes, and they are expensive because you have to go back to Stuarts and buy a new bit - they are all readily available at a price.

I've been working on my 10V in odd moments for a long time. I've had a lot of fun and learned a lot but I've also had to buy some new castings becasue of machining mistakes.

At the moment I'm working through the SMEE course on building "Polly", the little oscillator designed by Tubal Cain. Apart from the excellence of the training, it's a real joy to work on because everything is made from cheap steel, copper and brass - if you make a mistake you just curse, add it to the scrap bin and start again. It's also more wide ranging. I've had to learn sheet metal work, flanging and silver soldering, as well as using turning and milling skills.

When Polly is done I'll finish my 10V.

So for me the 10V is an ideal second model after you've learned enough to be able to do it without making too much scrap. If you also have to learn the skills, then choose somthing for a first model that can be made from cheap stock materials.

Norman Billingham

Hi

What is this SMEE course, it sounds perfect for someone like me who wants to try to build a small steam engine.

Regards Harry

"Polly", the

excellence of

Harry,

I have emailed you the contact numbers off line. SM&EE are running two course types at the moment. a/ An introduction to Model Engineering and b/ An advanced course. The building of the Polly Oscillator is the practical side of the advanced course.

Regards,

Andrew Mawson (Chairman SM&EE)