Removing rose bearing

I have a pneumatic cylinder rod end 'rose bearing' (ie spherical bearing) thoroughly stuck on the shaft that it moves. I've managed to
unscrew the pneumatic cylinder rod so just the rose bearing remains in situ. It is on a 20mm stainless shaft and the ball of the bearing is tightly up against a shoulder. The ball itself has rusted and is totally jammed to the shaft yet still moves as a bearing. I can put a standard puller on the ball housing, but it seems to be made of softish alloy and I think applying more pressure than I already have will break it. I've applied gentle heat and even not so gentle heat to no avail. Scared to break it as I've not found a source of replacements (20mm shaft and 20mm 2.5mm pitch right hand female thread). Short of making a special puller (which is my next move) do the panel have any innovative solutions for getting it off?
AWEM
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Andrew Mawson wrote:

Electrolytic rust removal? or freezing perhaps?
--
BigEgg
Hack to size. Hammer to fit. Weld to join. Grind to shape. Paint to cover.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 17 Oct 2006 22:54:53 +0100, "Andrew Mawson"

I take it the position is so awkward that it can't be immersed in any sort of solution/penetrating oil to help free it up? Or could you put whatever solution may work in a plastic bag and seal it and tie round the shaft and bearing? I was thinking that either Coca-Cola may help (don't laugh, it does work on seized up rusty bits!) or perhaps a minor version of the electrolytic rust removal type process.
Or have I (as usual) written out a reply without fully appeciating the situation <g>.
Peter
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

to
in
is
a
have
to
do
any
put
round
the
Peter,
This bearing is mounted on one of two stainless shafts sticking out (and welded to) a thick plate bolted to the side of the furnace. The other shaft is the main pivot for the furnace so although theoretically possible to remove it's a pain in the nether regions akin to removing a car engine. I think I'll probably have to have a concerted effort to find a replacement then hack it off with an angle grinder, but so far I've only found male threaded versions not femail !
AWEM
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Is it that what you are looking for? <http://www.maedler.de/katalog_de/katalog/index.htm?http&&&www.maedler.d e/katalog_de/katalog/p_a01b07c02.htm> Yes, it's in German. I think that there is a dealer near me who has them too.
Nick
--
The modular DRO
<http://www.yadro.de>
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Nick Mller wrote:

If that is what he's looking for, I believe it's often called a "rod end bearing". You can get them from quite a few places in the UK: BSL, RS, Farnell, etc.
Best wishes,
Chris
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Andrew Mawson wrote:

RS Stock No. 198-9033
Tom PS Have wasted time in the past with these frozen to shafts, learnt to bite bullet..
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com


Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yes that certainly looks the business - thanks. Though they give every bit of the spec EXCEPT the thread size afaics. I've been trying off and on most of the afternoon to log on to RS to look for it, and each time I tried to log in it locked up IE6 - happened maybe hald a dozen times. Going in by part number then logging in worked !
AWEM
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Andrew Mawson wrote:

http://www.aetnascrew.com/metricrodends.htm
Just rung Norgren and they confirm 20mm x 1.5tpi is standard on their rods.
Tom
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com


Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 17 Oct 2006 22:54:53 +0100, "Andrew Mawson"

Can you 'see' the rear face of the ball at all? if so, maybe a small bearing separator would be useable to get some purchase on it? This sort of thing
http://www.shacktools.com/sykespickavant-bearing-separator-puller-set-55mm-in-metal-case-p-2051.html
Freeze spray?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Loctite-FREEZE-RELEASE_W0QQitemZ180034771750
Tim
Dutton Dry-Dock Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs Vintage diesel engine service
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

to
in
is
a
have
to
do
http://www.shacktools.com/sykespickavant-bearing-separator-puller-set-55mm-in-metal-case-p-2051.html
I reckon your first link is the way to go as yes I can see the spherical surface - thanks Tim
AWEM
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

to
in
is
a
have
to
do
http://www.shacktools.com/sykespickavant-bearing-separator-puller-set-55mm-in-metal-case-p-2051.html
Tim,
Splendid idea - never seen those before - ordered bearing separator, plopped on doormat this morning, and bearing now pulled off after a bit of creaking and groaning. I got a 'US Pro' kit from ebay for about 30 inc postage as it seemed more universal than others. 5 mins with an improvised flap disc (piece of 1/2" aluminium bar cross slotted and 320 grit wet&dry in slot) up the spout of the rusted bearing and a polish of the s/steel shaft and it is now perfectly satisfactory for the service it will be put to. No point in being too fussy about bearing fits when in Dantes Inferno <G>
AWEM
AWEM
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 19 Oct 2006 10:56:59 +0100, "Andrew Mawson"

Machine mart do a boxed set of two with various gismo's. Had one for about 5 years now and it's standing up -- Regards,
John Stevenson Nottingham, England.
Visit the new Model Engineering adverts page at:- http://www.homeworkshop.org.uk /
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 19 Oct 2006 10:56:59 +0100, "Andrew Mawson"

Would a bit of Coppaslip or nickel equivalent discourage the metal worm from retuning when the inferno is resting?
Mark Rand RTFM
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

separator,
about
with
and
for
worm from

Mark,
The tin of Copperease is already by the machine as it goes back together! I tend to dip bolts and things in it as a habit when reassembling. The problem happened as the chap I bought the furnace body from had had it sitting loosely wrapped in an open yard for I suspect several years before it fell into my clutches. The crucible and its surrounding refractory packing was dripping wet (Greg would have had a fit!). I've been slowly drying it out with a 100w bulb under it for the past fortnight and the leakage has dropped from 10K to earth to now immeasurable on my megger. Speaking to the 'professional' he tells me they don't bother drying out but just install them and run them up and let the water steam off !!!! Never mind the 1000v on the coil<G>
AWEM
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 17 Oct 2006 22:54:53 +0100, "Andrew Mawson"

http://www.autosport-bearings.co.uk/webshop/home2.jsp
GISW20X2.5 20mm Bore x M20 x 2.5. RH Female 49.45
Drill down the menus or search on GISW20
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Andrew Mawson wrote:

What size are the cylinders,I`ve got two 100mm dia x about 300mm stroke Shrader cylinders that came of a machine.Rod dia appears about 32mm and they are fitted with 20mm bore Rose bearings on the rod end. Mark.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

to
stroke
and
Mark they are 3" bore 12" stroke 1" rod double acting with hinged clevis at the lower end and 20mm rose on the rod end.
Regards,
Andrew
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Mine had a hinged clevis at the bottom end.Should be about somewhere.They are for sale if you can live with the increased diameter.Email your address if you want pics. Mark.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.