Toolpost screws

I wanted some in M10 or 3/8" for a batch of toolholders that I was making a few years ago, my local bolt supplier got some in for me but he had to get a box of 200 from, I think, Germany & they weren't cheap. I've still got some spare if anyone needs any in M10.

Someone was selling them on ebay in small batches a while ago, may well still be doing so, I think they were Whit threads though. Worth checking, I think.

Tim

Our suppliers suggested WDS Tooling Aids in Leeds.

-- Peter A Forbes Prepair Ltd, Rushden, UK snipped-for-privacy@prepair.co.uk

Is it such a big deal to get some 8mm bolts and mill the heads square? Or just use cap heads or hex bolts anyway? I have square headed toolpost screws on my Student but I really wouldn't be fussed if I had to use something else if they all broke. It's only a machine.

Aha! Have you tried to search for "square head set screws" instead of toolpost screws? Using the former gives these links as the first 2 in Google UK::

Peter

Ah, perhaps that's a difference between a pro and a hobbyist. I'm sure if were a pro with a workshop full of machines I would think "its only a machine", but that one single myford I have in my "workshop" is my baby!!! So, if its supposed to come with a square headed anything, than that's what it must have. I guess its like having to have the correct grill or wing mirror on a vintage car.

No, of course its not rational :) !!!!

AC

It's true that I could use hex head or socket head screws but it would drive me mad to be forever looking for a different tightning tool depending on which toolholder I was trying to fit.

As you suggest, I am going to have to make some of the bolts myself anyway because the set I need for the blade type parting holder act in tension to compress the holder across a slit and standard square head bolts have nothing in the head to bear down on. If I did make the bolts myself should I use high tensile material or is EN1A OK ? I can probably get hold of EN8 or EN24, which of these would be better in this application and do they need heat treating ? I don't think there will be enough height in the head to get away with your idea of milling hex set screws square if I allow for an integral bearing "washer". But this is admittedly starting to get quite complicated...

Mike

Thanks for the links I will try them,

Mike

Mike

Just an alternative view but while I understand the frustration of looking for tools, my solution (as taught during my apprenticeship) is to ensure that each machine has a set of the basic tools necessary located either on the splash guard (tailstock end), or on a shelf/ board behind the machine. The toolkit consists of the necessary chuck keys, locking spanners, toolpost spanners, hex keys (proper T handle ones) and even adjustment/lubrication stuff if they are unique. Look out at the end of each training session if your kit was missing something!! With the cost of basic tools being very low at the moment it takes little to assemble a kit for each machine. Our first practical session of each term in the training school was to be assigned a machine and to ensure that its toolkit was complete and in good condition. Tool holder screws were made from "mild steel" and while fine they did wear fairly quickly with our clumsy use.

I would agree with Richard that the ideal for your need would be "normal" 12.9 Socket head screws, they are high tensile and will last forever. Your machine toolkit just needs the addition of a suitable hex key. The first job when I acquired my Boxford was to make one of Johns QCTP and a selection of holders. They are all equipped with either socket head cap or grub screws (latter bought by the bucket from Proops) and I haven't needed to change a single one yet after several years of hard use.

I can empathize to an extent with the comment from AC re "originality" but my lathe is not going to be judged for the "concours" competition and so when there is something better available then I tend to use it. Good quality socket head screws are just such an example.

Regards

Keith

You could always machine a little cap to keep the crud out...

Regards Tony

On or around Fri, 31 Oct 2008 10:35:43 +0000, Tony Jeffree enlightened us thusly:

yeah, but it's a torx, so it'd be a pain making it fit nicely.

holder on the

Squirt of hot melt glue, with a nut on top as a handle

AWEM

Whats wrong with buying them from the manufacturers ?

I use a magnetised scriber point. works less well with brass though...

Mark Rand RTFM