I wanted some in M10 or 3/8" for a batch of toolholders that I was
making a few years ago, my local bolt supplier got some in for me but
he had to get a box of 200 from, I think, Germany & they weren't
I've still got some spare if anyone needs any in M10.
Someone was selling them on ebay in small batches a while ago, may
well still be doing so, I think they were Whit threads though. Worth
checking, I think.
Our suppliers suggested WDS Tooling Aids in Leeds.
Peter A Forbes
Prepair Ltd, Rushden, UK
Is it such a big deal to get some 8mm bolts and mill the heads square? Or
just use cap heads or hex bolts anyway? I have square headed toolpost screws
on my Student but I really wouldn't be fussed if I had to use something else
if they all broke. It's only a machine.
Ah, perhaps that's a difference between a pro and a hobbyist. I'm sure if
were a pro with a workshop full of machines I would think "its only a
machine", but that one single myford I have in my "workshop" is my baby!!!
So, if its supposed to come with a square headed anything, than that's what
it must have. I guess its like having to have the correct grill or wing
mirror on a vintage car.
No, of course its not rational :) !!!!
It's true that I could use hex head or socket head screws but it would
drive me mad to be forever looking for a different tightning tool
depending on which toolholder I was trying to fit.
As you suggest, I am going to have to make some of the bolts myself
anyway because the set I need for the blade type parting holder act in
tension to compress the holder across a slit and standard square head
bolts have nothing in the head to bear down on. If I did make the
bolts myself should I use high tensile material or is EN1A OK ? I can
probably get hold of EN8 or EN24, which of these would be better in
this application and do they need heat treating ? I don't think there
will be enough height in the head to get away with your idea of
milling hex set screws square if I allow for an integral bearing
"washer". But this is admittedly starting to get quite complicated...
Just an alternative view but while I understand the frustration of
looking for tools, my solution (as taught during my apprenticeship) is
to ensure that each machine has a set of the basic tools necessary
located either on the splash guard (tailstock end), or on a shelf/
board behind the machine. The toolkit consists of the necessary chuck
keys, locking spanners, toolpost spanners, hex keys (proper T handle
ones) and even adjustment/lubrication stuff if they are unique. Look
out at the end of each training session if your kit was missing
something!! With the cost of basic tools being very low at the moment
it takes little to assemble a kit for each machine. Our first
practical session of each term in the training school was to be
assigned a machine and to ensure that its toolkit was complete and in
good condition. Tool holder screws were made from "mild steel" and
while fine they did wear fairly quickly with our clumsy use.
I would agree with Richard that the ideal for your need would be
"normal" 12.9 Socket head screws, they are high tensile and will last
forever. Your machine toolkit just needs the addition of a suitable
hex key. The first job when I acquired my Boxford was to make one of
Johns QCTP and a selection of holders. They are all equipped with
either socket head cap or grub screws (latter bought by the bucket
from Proops) and I haven't needed to change a single one yet after
several years of hard use.
I can empathize to an extent with the comment from AC re "originality"
but my lathe is not going to be judged for the "concours" competition
and so when there is something better available then I tend to use it.
Good quality socket head screws are just such an example.
Have you tried to search for "square head set screws" instead of
Using the former gives these links as the first 2 in Google UK::
I don't know whether they are stock or special order though.
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