Cracking the Ford 10 Cut.

This post is for everybody who has ever had a problem with getting a
Key for the 10 cut ford ignition. This lock has 6 wafers and a sidebar
but is called a 10 cut because thats how many cuts are on the key. 4
operate the door only and two are shared by door and ignition + 4
unique to the ignition. Wala, or however you spell that exclamation,
10 cuts. This lock was used 1984.5 - 1996 on most Ford models.
Many pickups were a notable exception and retained the older and
better 5 pin ignition. Do not use this technique on that ignition. You
may crack it, usually to a bunch of pieces before you get it to turn,
but will likely do damage to the column in the process. It can be
picked in the usual manner for pin tumbler locks since there is no side
bar. There is a hardened insert to protect from drilling which will
have you scratching your head or perhaps cursing depending on your
temperment, and wishing you had extra drill bits if you dont know its
there. If you want to drill it use a masonry i.e. carbide bit at high
speed on it till you break through the hardened insert.
Some Escort/Tracer use a modified version of the ten cut where only
seven cuts on the key are relevant, none the less the good people at
FORD have cut the other three on the factory keys, perhaps in an
attempt to weaken it and thus increase the odds that it will break off
in the ignition. That lock should also theoretically succumb to this
technique but I havent had occassion to try it on one so dont hold me
to it. The 10 cut lock can easily be identified by its offset keyway,
which you may have to remove the wings or ears to see. It also has 6
wafers, actually a combination of a pin and a wafer as I recall with
the wafer portion of each tumbler interacting with the sidebar. No
matter though for this discussion. I'm not getting into how to make a
key for the damn thing just how to break the blasted thing and replace
it. Some may not consider this locksmithing. As you may have figured
out by now I dont care what you think so dont bother telling me. Just
mutter to yourself or something, you will waste less of your time.
Better yet if you are an uptight secret squirrel dont read my posts at
all they will just piss you off. I dont want to be responsible for you
having a coronary or some damn thing.
Ok to the business at hand. This 10 cut lock like most Ford ignitions
that I know of cant be removed without being in the on position. Thats
a problem when you dont have the key. Starting the damn car is a
problem too without the key but thats about to change.
Method 1:
Obtain the correct tool, dont scream, Im going to cover an alternate
method for those of you to cheap or lazy or whatever else to buy the
damn thing. The correct tool is called a sure shot or 10 cut bypass
key or similar depending on who makes it. It is available from most
automotive locksmith suppliers on the web. Some of them will only sell
to locksmiths, or people with locksmith stationary or a locksmith
email address anyway, others will sell to just about anybody even
though they may claim they only sell to locksmiths to protect
themselves from liability. I could post the names of the lax ones but
it wouldnt do you any good because no sooner than I post it some damn
secret squirrel will be calling them and trying to convince them to
check credentials or get fingerprints or some such nonsense to protect
the sanctity and secret squirelness of the locksmith profession.
Anyway I digress. The tool incorporates a tempered steel blade similar
to a 10 cut key i.e. H67 or similar blank. Thats on the end which goes
in the lock, youre probably saying "no really I never would have
guessed", well I have to be thorough here for people like Evan the
maintenance man who will swear that my instructions are bogus because
I didn't say which end goes in the damn lock. It must take this guy at
least an hour and and a dozen read throughs of the procedure to change
a damn light bulb. Anyway on the back of the tool is a large hex 3/4
or 7/8" as I recall. Insert the tool in the lock. Ok Evan insert the
part that looks like a damn key blank in the lock, happy now? Push it
all the way in. Apply the appropriate socket or wrench to the hex and
give it a sharp twist in the clockwise direction. You will here a
crack which is the sound of the sidebar breaking the lock cylinder and
the ignition will turn. This works because 10 cut ignitions are shoddy
built crap with cylinder material only slightly more durable than an
ice cream cone. If it doesn't work you are doing something wrong or
you are using it on the wrong type of lock. I have never seen it fail
on the true 10 cut ignition, like I say I havnt tried it on the
Escort/Tracer versions so dont bitch at me if you buy it and try it on
one and it doesnt work. You can always sell the damn thing on ebay for
twice what you paid for it. I will probably cover drilling these
things at a later time anyway.
Method 2:
OK here it is, the one for you cheap bastards who probably just
skipped over everything else I just wrote anyway. Get a screwdriver
approximately 3/8" wide at the blade. And still thin enough to go in
the lock. Craftsman ones about 2 sizes or so down from the largest
work good. They also have a square shank which is helpful for the next
step. Obtain a large adjustable wrench or vise grips, pliers may work
but are marginal in holding power. It is helpful to first break the
wings off if they are on your ignition, just pop them off with a
screwdriver, remember this for when we start talking about the GM 6
cut. Tap the screwdriver, yes Evan, the blade end, into the lock. Tap
it in good and tight. It must fit very snug. Now torque the
screwdriver hard and fast with the wrench etc in a clockwise
direction. If all has gone well you will hear the CRACK of yet another
Ford defect failing under the slightest stress and the ignition will
turn. Now you can either start the car and drive away assuming there
is no transponder, PATS, etc system which on most of these there
isn't. To find out which models are theft protected and which arent as
well as just about everything you ever wanted to know about auto
locking systems get autosmart or a similar publication from your
friendly supplier whom of course you write to on your locksmith
letterhead or email from your locksmith email address. At this point
some secret squirrel will likely chime in that there is a lot more to
locksmithing than reading some damn book. That might well be true but
most of them would be lost without that damn book so just ignore that
noise. Alternatively if you are, as I suspect, too cheap to buy
the damn book you can call your local locksmith for a price on making
a key for the car in question, wait while he looks in his book to find
out what the hell to do, then if he quotes you a price that sounds
like the days spot price for an ounce or two of gold it is a
transponder system. To confirm you can ask him: "is that because it
uses a transponder or something" at which point he may do the rational
thing and tell you or he may get very quiet since he is wondering just
what the hell business of yours transponders and the like are anyway,
you being just a lowly consumer and all. He may even say something
like "Just why the hell do you want to know about transponders" or
something like that, this might seem strange to you but it is pretty
much normal locksmith behavior, dont hold it against him, thank him
and hang up. Or you could tell him that you read some article on
Usenet by some smartass SOB about forcing the ignition on your car and
you want to know if the damn thing is further protected from theft or
if the friendly F O R D people have jammed you yet again.
If you are changing the lock at this point turn it to the on position
and depress the retainer and pull it out. If the lock hasnt turned
look to see if the screwdriver has slipped. If so try again except jam
it in tighter and exert some force on the end while turning or use a
tighter fitting screwdriver. This method works very reliably but is
not quite as good as method 1 which is why I told you cheapskates to
buy the damn tool.
Note that none of this is a secret. Locksmith type secret squirrels
pay special attention here. Car thieves and others who frequently need
to start cars with no keys have known this for years. Ford has also
known about it since day one and like most of their deffects they
simply dont give a damn unless the car is exploding for no apparant
reason or something like that and they are being sued over it. Even
then they dont care unless the cost of correcting the defect is less
than the losses in court. This is in no way slander or libel, the
truth being the best defense against that, just ask anyone who has
owned a Fixed Or Repaired Daily. Besides Im posting from several
proxies away from where you header crunchers think I am so it doesnt
make a damn anyway. Also note that if you are a locksmith and this is
pissing you off you are taking things way too seriously and you need
to lighten up before you have the BIG ONE as Fred Sanford or what was
his name......Red Foxx??? use to say.
Reply to
Loading thread data ...
Oops... is there anything worse than making an error during a correction?
It's Voila, not viola.
Usually with the little ' thing on the a.
Reply to

Site Timeline

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.