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Universal neat cutting oil

Looking to source a drum of neat cutting oil, and would appreciate
comments from other users as to type / source / cost etc. Ideally I
want a 'one size fits all' solution to save carrying umpteen different
types.
All machines were emptied prior to my move and I would like to avoid
using soluble oil (as I was before) - now is the chance to start
afresh. Were talking:
Lathe (Colchester Master )
Mill (Bridgeport)
Surface and cylindrical grinders (J&S)
Pedestal grinder (Elliot with sump)
Power Hacksaw (Tiwanese Warco)
Gear Hobber (Mikron)
AWEM
Reply to
Andrew Mawson
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I used to run neat oil in everything also.Except for grinders,it is no use for them and whitewater or synthetic is what I would recommend. You will find it messy on non enclosed machines and everything needs washed when you`ve made it but nothing rusts.The other hazard is fire risk.. I used Ovoline who have now sold out to Fuchs,but all the companies do neat oil.Rocol,Castrol,Shell,BP,Stewarts,I could go on all night.
Reply to
mark
In article , Andrew Mawson writes
Andrew,
For the last 20 years I have used Shell Garia H for lathe and milling work. Seems to do the job quite well, I'm still on the 5 gallon (?) drum.
It appears to have been superseded by other versions - see for example:
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~£400 (+VAT and delivery) for 209 litres - this may just about be enough to give your collection its initial filling, at least.
(Not forgotten about your hardness tester.)
Regards,
David
Reply to
David Littlewood
zzzzzzzzz
Regards, Tony
Reply to
Tony Jeffree
Let`s hope you stay that way instead of clogging up the net with constant poor attempts at humour. Mark.
Reply to
mark
I'm still using the Elf Aleda oil that I was when Tim asked about in tin Jan 2003. Got 5 gallons 7 years back and am still working on it. The only time I use it with a pump, so far, is when gun drilling. Any sulphur free, chlorinated oil will probably work with both steel and yellow metals.
I would second not using straight oil with the grinders, at least not the same oil as used for the lathes and milling machines. I'm currently using Hysol Excel for the grinder, which works so long as you keep it aerated. I intend to change to Syntilo 26 when I can next afford to clean out the tank.
Actually, what's wrong with using toilet water for the machines that were designed with it in mind? I could understand if one retrofitted with a micro-drop type unit, but not if one were still using a suds pump (Hardinge excepted!)
Mark Rand RTFM
Reply to
Mark Rand
One problem with neat cutting oil is you needs loads to cool the job down. Fine for enclosed machines but something like your Master will probably turn it all to smoke on large cuts / drills unless you can literally flood it [ read $hit up to the eyeballs ]
I was going to do the same when I had a cheap supply, since dried up ..., but the CVA is just about borderline. Local guy swapped over on a Triumph and had to swap back to suds because of the smoke.
I have kept the two TOS lathes on soluble for this reason. The hobber and big power hacksaw run far better on neat
Reply to
John Stevenson
Hi I have been through all this and I run my lathes, mills and hobber on a light straight oil, I have this blended for me by a local supplier in 25lit drums, The main feature is that it is thin and free running also it does not gum up when you leave the machine. I would not use it on the grinders where soluble is the only real way to get things cool. On the fire risk front, yes it can burn under extreme conditions but I have had no problem with this and I do get things going quite hard! The oil all over the place problem is something I have to live with. Peter
Reply to
petercolman45
I'll second John on the smoke issue. Neat oil doesn't half make a cloud if it gets hot. Definitely not one to be used in small quantities but it gives a nice finish on lighter cuts/thread cutting
Charles
Reply to
Charles Ping
Which leads onto the question, does anyone have a favourite soluble oil? One that gives minimal rusting, excellent coolant/cut lubrication, not too smelly (good sump life for the model engineer), and doesn't mind cold workshops too much.
I wouldn't say it's a favourite, but i have some Rocol V-cut MT that I mix up in a squeezy bottle for an occasional squirt, but now I'm considering more coolant pump use on the machines. Whilst not as extensive as AWEMs, I want something for use on lathe, mill, and grinder.
Some of the septics seem to swear by Blaser, which I believe is a vegatable rather than mineral oil. Any comments?
Peter
Reply to
Peter Neill
I swear by Pure Lard Oil.
Absolute bugger in the summer as the wasps adore it as well.
I'd rather have them than be choked with fumes like a Paypal( sp.) Election or smell like some incontinent fugitive from a Romanian Old Age Pensioners Home.
Norman
( so that's me in the pig sh1t with two mobs- or is it more?)
Reply to
ravensworth2674
Peter Hi, the company my brother works for runs CNCs making medical bits - fancy a new hip? - they swear by (not at) Blaser Swisslube Vascomill 22, a non-chlorinated vegetable based cutting oil. He says it is an excellent general cutting fluid but has no idea if it has any real "tank life" in the still and the cold. Their machines all use high pressure systems and being a medical company they scrub and change it regularly; a major cost he says as they haven't found a cheap supplier yet. They use a different lubricant for Titanium though but he can't remember what (bloody pencil pusher). I have asked him to check what they do with the "old" oil to see if I can try a bit but I expect it is classified as "toxic" or worse.
regards
Keith
Reply to
jontom_1uk
Couldn't possibly give it to you Keith You might drink it, just as you might drink battery acid :-))
Henry
Reply to
Dragon
Bad day was it, Mark?
Regards, Tony
Reply to
Tony Jeffree
I have a pal who machines Titanium for racing car parts and uses Coconut oil neat (yes that stuff) and it works well Peter
Reply to
petercolman45

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