18/20 RMS Question here.

"Kurt" wrote in message news:978re.569$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr17.news.prodigy.com...

[areo-tech ] don't have to have custom dies made..... hence the small gap when installed .....nuff said about that.......now the solution to your problem, which is really all you care about anyway.......having been in a similar situation here is what to do....get some common everyday wooden toothpicks......make sure the hole is clear......don't add the ejection powder until right before you fly ......you can pre-assemble the motor but don't add the ejection charge.....now right before you head to the pad ....seperate the two caps...pour a very small amount of powder into the ejection well take the toothpick and poke it [the powder into the hole ,this will make sure it comes into contact with the delay grain,insuring the ejection charge ignites] ......now slip the red cap, with the remainder of the powder over the well as instructed ......at this point, under no cicumstances turn the motor upside down.....install said motor in rocket by sliding rocket over motor ....this keeps the ejection charge in contact with the delay grain .....if you do tip it over the powder can "shift'' out of position due to the gap space in the cap and may not go back into contact with the de-lay due to the small size of hole.......this is not a problem with larger motors due to the larger hole size in the casing .....with such a small hole in the hobby size motors the powder grain size is such that it can jam together and not settle back into the hole .....kinda like when those 3 minute egg timers with the sand in them do.....you have probably seen that.... the sand clots together and you have to tap it,to get it flowing again... it sounds more difficult than it really is.....since using this technique, I haven't had a ejection charge fail to lite.....lighting on time though ,is another matter, which I'm sure, my brother rocketeers can relate to .......... just remember.....once the ejection charge is in....don't invert the motor or the rocket with installed motor....you shouldn;t have any further problems.....once again this seems to be a problem only with the smaller 18mm and 24mm casings, i haven't had it with the 29mm ..... the smaller they are the touchier they seem to be....hope this helps...... jim h
Reply to
james hendricksen
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I've seen video of proper assembly on these on AT's web site. You might want to check that out.

Reply to
Phil Stein

Jeff's 38mm LOKI motors have a red cap that goes over their ejection charge well.

You pour the powder in, put wadding in the red cap to take up the difference, and snap it on.

I like it.

the wadding part is to make sure the powder stays in contact with the ejection charge.

Art Upton

Reply to
ArtU

The procedures are different for the model and HPR reloads. The model rocket reloads use the red cap to contain the ejection charge. Don't worry that it rattles around inside, that is normal. IMHO it's a more secure process than depending on the little tape dot to seal the ejection well.

Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD" >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD!

Reply to
Bob Kaplow

Unless you're looking for help in assembling the motor. Someone who flies L3 stuff exclusively would not be my first choice for showing someone how to assemble a D13 reload. Sorry Kevin.

Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD" >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD!

Reply to
Bob Kaplow

Do me a favor please. Lighten up on the profanity, fella.......okay?

Reply to
Dodo

Actually,

The fellow had an article written about him in the newspaper and I wanted to see how a reload was done. Just so happens it was an H load he was doing. I did want to see that size engine loading as I was hoping some time to do that in the future. I didn't at the time fly anything more than SU's. I now know I incorrectly mounted the cap without puncturing it or separating the cylindrical liner. Dave gave me the link to the Aerotech site that shows the reloading process. Interesting that I had the link and saw it some time ago but I had wanted to look at it again and couldn't get it to google up. I see now the link is right out in the open on the Aerotech site. One things for certain, am not going to be doing the same mistake twice. I look at the bright side, at least I had a little angle in the launch rod. If it went straight up and straight down, I might have had my head skewered! :) Man I still was impressed with the noise of that little engine. Quite the concussive experience and most satisfying as I can launch locally and not have to be at a waivered situation.

Kurt Savegnago

Reply to
Kurt

Embarassed to say I was the "true" idiot. Kurt Savegnago ;)

Reply to
Kurt

Hey,

I've cooled down. Thanks for all the advice for the ejection charge placement. Won't make the same mistake twice and it's best this occurred with a small engine and rocket. Replacement is on the way and I may going out looking in the fall when the vegetation is down.

Kurt Savegnago

Reply to
Kurt

You assume I have way more "rocket money" than is the case, Bob. My average over the past year was a G, I believe, with the biggest motor burned being either a J or a K.

I built a couple of 24/40 reloads last year; problem is it's been almost a year since I did so.

-Kevin

Reply to
Kevin Trojanowski

AeroTech will extract it from you anyway.

Reply to
Jerry Irvine

So you put BOTH caps, still mated, on the ejection end of the motor? NOT good...

Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD" >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD!

Reply to
Bob Kaplow

errorteck

:)

Reply to
Jerry Irvine

In article snipped-for-privacy@corp.supernews.com, Jerry Irvine at snipped-for-privacy@gte.net wrote on 6/13/05 8:33 PM:

U.S. Rackets

:)

BTW the instructions clearly state to separate the plastic caps. There are even some nice pictures showing how the ejection cap is snapped onto the end of the motor.

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Gary

Reply to
Gary C. Rosenfield

ROTFL!

Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD" >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD!

Reply to
Bob Kaplow

Now THAT is truly funny! Thanks, Gary!

- Rick "Had to happen, eventually" Dickinson

Reply to
Rick Dickinson

The best method that I've discovered is to place the disc in position, then run 3/4" or 1" masking tape *around* the ejection well, forming a tape cylinder that extends half on and half off the ejection well, and then fold it over onto the tape disc, like you're closing up a roll of coins.

Easy to do, and pretty much guarantees that your ejection charge doesn't go anywhere until it's ignited. Also, screwing up and failing to clean off a small bit of grease on the ejection well doesn't keep it from sticking, as the tape sticks fine to itself, especially if you wrap it tightly.

Over-the-top masking tape reuires that the sides of the well be perfectly grease-free, otherwise the tape will come off. The wrap method doesn't have that particular failure mode. I've used motors I prepped several months before with no problems, and no spilled ejection charges, despite rattling around in a plastic bin in the back of my truck for the intervening time.

- Rick "tape sticks well to tape" Dickinson

Reply to
Rick Dickinson

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