I'm starting the Hasegawa 1/32 Zero of Saburo Sakai (Yokosuka Naval Wing, Yokosuka 1945). The painting instructions have me mixing the following paints:
Cowling: blue and black Upper fuselage: blue, green, yellow Underside wings/fuselage: white, brown, black, yellow
I don't trust myself to get the correct mix in any of these and am hoping someone can give me a suitable substitute color from Testors or Tamiya (i.e. a single bottle that yields approximate colors to what I should be looking for). I'm not sure what these colors are supposed to look like, so any help would be appreciated!
You can order direct from Testors if you want. You'll need to scroll down quite a ways, but they do have IJN Green & Gray listed. Barring that, check your favorite Mail Order establishment (they may have other brands that will useful to you, too) or your local hobby shop (if you've got one).
in article 47b19e78$0$22807$ email@example.com, Scherer at firstname.lastname@example.org wrote on 2/12/08 8:24 AM:
One really valuable net resource is the Japanese aircraft modeling website, j-aircraft.com.
They've done a huge amount of research, a lot of it centered on the Zero.
Here's the URL for the Research section of the site:
If you read through the menus, you'll find an article by James Lansdale on Zero camouflage schemes. The URL:
In the article, Lansdale gives the following FS call-outs for A6M-5 camouflage schemes, which were generally dark green over gray with blue-black cowl.
Mitsubishi: Flat "dark black-green upper and flat gray lower" (D1 over J3): FS-34052 (upper); FS-36357 (lower) Nakajima: Flat "black-green upper and flat blue-gray lower" (D1 or D2 over J2): FS-34077 (upper); FS-36307 (lower)
As you can see, the colors are slightly different for Mitsubishi-produced planes from those for Nakajima-produced planes. The easiest way to tell who produced the Zero you're modeling: on Nakajima-produced planes, the upper/lower camo demarcation line curves up to meet the front of the horizontal stabilizer; while on Mitsubishi-produced planes it goes straight back to the rudder.
Hope any of this helps. Pip Moss I used to feel cheap 'cause I had no signature.
Many thanks to all for the information...I look forward to a few hours of research you've provided...I've gotten advice in the past from this group and will try to post some pictures of the finished results soon. I'm going to enter a few at the Columbus show this weekend...maybe I'll see some of you there! Look for the Polish 303 Sq Spit Mk Vb and a Yak 3....possibly a FW 190 A8 as well!