ok, now that i've sen the virtues of single link track, how do i use one piece units to make them look natural? it's easy with the single links, but those one piece look fake. also, what's the opinion of icm armor kits? the pzk2 luchs seems like an ok kit. the wheels are kinda fiddly but look great with the single link track. is this an accurate kit? seems like it needs some detailing.
The large pieces can be made to look realistic, but it involves work. Obviously, it is easier on vehicles with narrow-chord tracks. It would be very hard to make such a "one piece" from a T-34 look realistic.
ICM kits are pretty nice; but they don't "build themselves" like Tamiya kits. If you like to "build models" as opposed to simply "assemble kits", then you will enjoy ICM models.
i couldn't find a model kit, much less a modeler locally. walmart sells crappy car kits. that's it. cosest other source is 30 miles and is poor. real models are 80 miles. fruil are the metal ones? i'm not quite museum stage yet... how would i work the stockers? i've read about clear line, wire, etc to hold them down, but they have very little play.
cool.
The tracks that come with the EE KV-1S kit CAN be used with it, but it takes a bit of work.
Before installing, get the suspension set up and ensure you have a good fit with the idlers as they are fragile. These tracks are a TIGHT fit so they have to be able to take the strain. Leave the drivers off (this is how you will get the tracks on the model later.)
First off, wash them thoroughly to get rid of mold release. Fasten the four sections into two track sets. Paint the tracks (I use a dark reddish brown or burnt sienna as a base color, as they tend to oxidize to a dark color and not a bright rust.) Wash with black and drybrush with silver.
Orient the tracks and put them on one side. Gently put the driver into the notches in the track and pull back until you can slide it on its mounting peg. (It's not going anywhere, but you can use plastic cement if you left the peg unpainted.) Make sure all of the teeth are in the groove between all the wheel sets.
Then mount the other track in the same fashion.
To get "sag" with these tracks, you need some .030 or .040 piano wire (e.g. stiff steel rod) and a pin vise. Press down with the pin vise and drill a hole in the side of the hull about centered between the return rollers and even with the tops of the return rollers. Repeat on the other side.
Cut a length of wire (you may need a hacksaw with this stuff) about the distance from the center of the track on one side to the center of the track on the other side. With the turret off, stick one end through the first hole, forcing the track down under the rod. Slide it through, and using a finger move it until you can align it with the hole on the other side. Slide the rod through and over the top of the other track.
Repeat for the other gap between the return rollers.
Paint the rod with the reddish color and a bit of drybrushing with silver and it blends in, hiding it from general site.
Works for me.
Cookie Sewell
"Greg Heilers" wrote
Pitch.
KL
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