Just finishing up four Revell Germany 1/72nd M-60A3's. I was not able to
get the tracks to fit properly insofar as length was concerned. I needed
one more single shoe on each side, and on one of the tanks, two on the right
side. (Had tracks for M-60's from Esci, and made the extra links from them.)
I was as careful as possible with the butting of the links together, and
there was no overlap or shingle effect anywhere.
I'm assuming that it's just me, but would it kill them to provide two or
four extra single shoes with each kit?
Hm for each set of link and length tracks I completed there were always
spare ones. That includes 3 kits from revell.
Sometimes the idler wheel can be glued in various posions that change length
of the tracks?
Maybe you glued it to maximize length?
Anyway I guess that there should be always enough of tracks to cover all
Contact Revell Germany, they may "sell" you a set. Rumour has it they
will do this now.
I do agree that with L&L tracks it wouldn't be a bad idea to include
some extras. Ya never know when you'll need 'em.
On Tue, 4 Sep 2007 01:59:35 -0500, "Don Harstad"
I remember building my ICM 1/35 scale T-35; I ended up with a very large
number of extra track links (a lot are now attached to the exterior of
the tank as "spares" in case of a damaged track), but I'm very glad
they included them.
To end up with too few for a model, despite its small scale seems like a
major flub on Revell's part.
I've done tanks with link & length tracks, and much prefer the
individual link ones for the proper look of sagging on the vehicle,
although in 1/72 scale it might by challenging to assemble the
individual links, even with the heated Testor's liquid cement technique
I came up with.
My favorite tracks were the steel-colored polyethylene snap- together
ones Tamiya used on there 1/24 scale motorized Tiger and Panther models.
These were very easy to assemble, and sagged just right due to the
self-lubricating qualities of the polyethylene at their hinge points.
Combined with the working torsion-bar suspension for the road wheels,
the whole effect was most convincing when the tank was on the move over
Oh, yeah, I ran into those too as a kid. I assume they shrunk during
cooling after being removed from the mold, or something in them dried
out after manufacture and they contracted. Airfix decals were a ball
also, basically shattering on their way from the wet decal sheet to the
You want to build a real oddball tank model, get that Tauro Model A7V WW
I German tank in 1/35 scale. The track is assembled by connecting
individual links together with tiny metal rods that slide through
them...but that's not the odd part... they decided to give the thing a
working suspension using real metal coil springs....even though the
tread is so structurally unsound that it will tear apart if you actually
try to rotate it once the model is done, and despite the fact that the
bogie units are only capable of moving a millimeter or two when
finished, they are mounted on multiple compressed coil springs under
around half a pound of pressure once the wheel housings are built...held
in place by a tiny separate pivot unit. You can forget trying to
assemble these with normal styrene cement. Even if you clamped them
somehow under pressure and let them dry for a week, once the first warm
day came around you are going to hear a "bang" noise and the entire tank
model is going to go flying into the air as the glue softens, the pivot
pulls out, the bogies disintegrate, and the terrible latent energy in
all the tiny metal springs is released at once.
There's something very Italian about the whole thing; they try to go the
extra mile to add a unique feature to their model kit and impress
modelers, and the extra mile makes the whole thing far more difficult to
assemble than it should be, and actually works against its saleability. :-D
That is the genius of Italy; which also gave the world this:
hey guys, are there any ways to stretch the rubber band tracks to have them
long enough to sag out? i'm building the tamiya early tiger 1 and it just
ain't got no sag. my best thought was hanging with a weight outside in our
nice 110 degree desert heat. that certainly makes MY tracks sag!
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