cracked windshield help

Hi everyone, I've been working really hard on a '63 Impala SS model, have the engine wired and everything and went to install the windshield and it cracked right down the middle! I tried cleaning the crack really well and flowing some clear into it but that failed miserably. I don't have access to vacuum forming. I read something a long time ago about coating the piece with petroleum jelly and spraying several coats of clear on it, and I thought of trying the clear plastic used for overhead projector transparencies, but that seems like it might be too flexible and prone to warping. Short of buying another kit or waiting 6 weeks for Revell to send another one, does anyone have any ideas of how to fix it or make a new one? Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks, Sara

Reply to
Sara
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Sara,

I'll tell you what I have done, maybe it'll work for you. I've used the clear front report folders to make "glass" out of. Hold the old glass in the opening, scribe around the opening. Then take the glass out, hold a piece of the folder over the glass, scribing around it just a little outside of the scribe on the glass. Then cut through the scribed line with scissors. Holding the piece in the opening I would go around it with super glue putting it in a section at a time. This has worked for me even in some really curved areas, also have used this to make side windows when the kit didn't have them and I thought it needed it.

Mike G.

Reply to
Mike G.

Too bad you don't make a diaroma with it and place a ticket on the wiper for a broken windshield.

I wonder of Future would work on something like this or if it'd still leave a line?

John

Reply to
John DeBoo

Have you ever done stretch forming with Squadron Thermoform??

Prolly not. It's not for the feint of heart.

I had to replace a windshield once so I glued it back together as best I could. I then glued a few layers of styrene behind the windshield to stiffen it and then glued that to a stick. I then filled and polished the outside of the windshield. I then sprayed a few layers of Surfacer

1000 and polished to a smooth finish with Micromesh. Then I mounted it (the stick) in a vise. I then dusted the surface of the windshield and then heated a sheet of Thermoform and stretched it over the the old windshield. let it cool before removing the new part then cut and trim to fit!

Viola! New windshield!

Reply to
Scott A. Bregi AKA The Model Hobbit

I'm not a car/vehicle builder, but for similar lightly curved panels on planes that don't need vacuum forming, I'll first cover the glass with masking tape (well overlapped if necessary to make a continuous sheet). I'd then mark the outline as accurately as possible lightly with a very sharp pencil - HB grade is fine). I'd then stick this to the type of clear plastic used in shirt packaging to keep collars stiff - or you can buy clear sheet at some hobby shops - then cut round the outline as carefully as you can with fine scissors. Err on the outside of the line - you can always shave the edges with shallow scalpel cuts to get a closer fit where needed. If there is any double curvature involved, moulding or a replacement part will be the only way to go.

Hope this helps,

Chek

Reply to
Chek

I've never seen a clear part glued together that looked satisfactory. If you don't want to wait by all means cut a new one out of plastic sheet. It's not much work and it actually looks better than the kit part. hth

The Keeper (of too much crap!)

Reply to
Keeper

Thanks for the help! I'll let you know what works. ~Sara

Reply to
Sara

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